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COL. HORN'S 

ANDY BOOK 



ON 



How to Pick High Bred Horses, 
Cattle, Sheep, Hogs and Poultry 

VALUABLE RECIPES 




Any Man, Woman or Fifteen Year Old Boy can 

Pick a Good Milk Cow or High Bred Chicken 

by the Description in this Book 



| COTj. HORN, Publisher 

t Lewisbukg. Preblk Co.,Ohio $ 



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COL. HORN'S 

HANDY BOOK 

ON 

How to Pick High Bred Horses, 
Cattle, Sheep, Hogs and Poultry 

VALUABLE RECIPES 




Any Man, Woman or Fifteen Year Old Boy can 

Pick a Good Milk Cow or High Bred Chicken 

by the Description in this Book 



COL.. HORN, Publisher 
Lewisburg, Preble Co., Ohio 



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THE GERMAN COACH 

They are a fair sized horse and a good 
hock and knee actor. They are a smooth 
looking horse and a fair driver. The Ger- 
man Coach are mostly black in color, but 
sometimes bay. 



THE SILVER TAIL MORGAN 

There was a time when the Silver Tail 
Morgan was a fast horse and some of them 
are very speedy now. This would be a 
good track horse to buy. 



THE HORSE 




THE PERCHERON HORSE 

The true Percheron was from 15 to 16 
hands high and weighed from 1200 to 
1400 pounds. The Percheron is a cross 
breed now and they weigh from 1600 to 
2000 pounds. They are generally blacks, 
bays and sometimes grays. The greater 
part of them are smooth draft horses. 



THE HORSE 




THE SHIRE HORSE 



The Shire is a good sized horse. There 

are more sorrels than bays. The most of 

thern have four white feet with white on 
the forehead. 



THE HORSE 




THE CLEVELAND BAY 

It is a carriage horse of good style and 
action and of good size. They are straight 
in the pastern joints in front. The top of 
the ears wide apart. They will breed after 
their color for three generations. They are 
also a smooth horse. 



THE BLACK HAWK MORGAN 

They are a nice bodied, stylish horse. 
And a good work horse with a good bone 
and most of them are gentle for driving 
purposes. They are the shortest eared 
horse on the market. 



THE HORSE 




THE HAMBLETONIAN 

They make a good driving horse. They 
are generally of good disposition and not 
overly large. The Hambletonian and 
Wilkes have the same breeding. The way 
to tell the difference between the two 
breeds, the Wilkes has a darker limb. 



8, 



THE HORSE 




THE CLYDESDALE 

A large horse for draft purposes of strong 
constitution and easily kept. All colors, 
generally white feet. A Clydesdale has a 
flat foot and some of the colts have a weak 
stifle, too heavy around the heart, thick in 
the throatlatch, this denotes bad wind; 
hasn't as good an eye as the Norman horse. 




THE NORMAN HORSE 

It is a draft horse, and a fullblooded Nor- 
man is a gray. They w T eigh from 1500 to 
1800 pounds. They are a well built horse 
in power and able to move a heavy load. 
A Norman has a good foot and not flat. 
They are a stylish, good boned horse. 



THE HORSE 




A RUNNING HORSE 

The Points to Look at: — Dish face, thin 
above the nostrils, a slick eye, heavy at the 
butt of the ear, the tips of the ears stand 
in, in the place of out, a long slim neck, 
slim in the throatlatch, head not too high, 
the leader that reaches from neck to the 
shoulder wants to be high from the points 
of the shoulder, straight in the front legs, 
straight and short in the pastern joints, a 
narrow foot and a high heel, narrow in the 
breast, low withers and short back, not too 
wide in the kidneys, not to wide in the 
hips, a little steep in the rump, heavy in 
the stifle and heavy in the leader that runs 
from the knee up, a high flank, long in the 
the belly, straight in the hind legs, short 
from the pastern joint to the feet, heavy 
and broad in the knee. 



10 THE HORSE 




THE SADDLE HORSE 

Points to Look at for a Saddle Horse: 
a straight forehead, wide between the eyes, 
slim ear, long in the neck, the leader that 
comes from the neck to the shoulder, see 
that it isn't too near the points of the 
shoulders, from the points of the shoulders 
wants to be short, heavv in the withers 
and not too high, heavy and short in the 
back, wide in the kidneys, hips round and 
full, a heavy tail bone, a heavy stifle and 
flank not too low, heavy and flat below 
the knee and a short round pastern joint, 
short from the pastern joint to the hoof, 
not too crooked in the hind legs, stand 
square on his front legs, see that they don't 
bow back nor forward, not too heavy 
around the heart nor too wide in the breast. 



THE HORSE 



11 




SHETLAND PONIES OF MOST ALL DIFFER- 
ENT COLORS 

The Shetland Stallion. — Look for pow- 
er, heavv mane and tail, extra heavv bone 
in the tail, short in the back, wide and a 
little broad across the withers, heavy in 
the neck, good heavy shoulder, wide be- 
tween the shoulder, little heavy in the 
throatlatch, not too narrow in the jaw, the 
ear heavy and short at the butt, not too 
narrow between the ears, w^ide below the 
ears, wide between the eyes, the forehead 
wide, not too narrow 7 across the mouth 
and nostrils, good heavy bone, good heavy 
front knee, fairly heavy and short in the 
pastern joints, black foot in the place of a 
white one, not too narrow in the heel, 
wide in the kidneys, the hips square across 



12 THE HORSE 

and not too rounding, low in the flank, ex- 
tra heavy in the stifle, wide below the sti- 
fle, wide and flat in the hind knee, a wide 
bone, not too much fle^h in front of the 
pastern joints. These points are for pow- 
er on a Shetland pony. Look for the sure 
breeding points as on the stallion for any 
breed. 

A SHETLAND BROOD MARE 

Long in the back, wide in the hips and 
not too straight, a low flank, long in the 
belly, not to wide across the heart, thin in 
the throatlatch. Always buy the brood 
mare in foal if over ten years of age, for if 
you don't the chances are the mare will 
not raise any colts. Look for the same 
points as on the stallion, outside the sure 
breeding points. 

The Points to Look at jn Buying a 
Horse. — Look down at the feet as well as 
up at the body, first notice the bottom of 
the feet. Thrush and foot evil is what de- 
cays the frog. 

Sidebone comes on both sides of the 
foot and grows on the inside of the hoof 



THE HORSE 13 

and shows on top of the hoof. Ringbone 
or side bone either will lame a horse. 
Ringbone and sidebone are both caused 
from a sprain. Ringbone will lame a 
horse when it grows over that hole that is 
straight up from the toe right on top of 
the hoof. That hole comes on all of the 
feet. Next a horse should stand squarely on 
his feet, not too narrow nor too low in the 
heel. The foot should not crook out or in. 
If a horse has been lame the fever will stop 
the growth of the foot at the top. The 
longer he has been lame the smaller the 
foot will be at the top. See that the feet 
are both alike, pastern joint and knees, and 
not too near cut off below the knee. A 
horse should stand with his feet close to- 
gether, not stretched out, nor picking his 
feet up and setting them out. This shows 
that the foot is sore. Look for splint on 
the inside and outside of the leg just below 
the knee, not too much fk sh in front of 
the pastern joints on the hind leg for that 
is the kind that knuckles, a wide knee 
and a flat bone and a little wide below the 
knee. See that the hocks are both alike. 



14 THE HORSE 

Thoroughpin is a growth that pushes 
from one side to the other through the 
hock. See that one pastern joint is not 
lower than the other. Always move a 
horse from you so you can see that they 
carry their tail straight, see that he has 
good hock action and shows the bottom of 
his shoes. Move a horse toward you to 
see that he is a good knee actor. Back a 
horse and if he picks his feet up he is all 
right, and if he drags his feet he is sore in 
the shoulders. See that the hoofs are both 
alike and see that they don't crook out or 
in. How to tell a dummy horse, rub your 
foot from the pastern joint down; the dull- 
er they are in their leg the slower they are 
to pick their feet up. 

Thoroughpin comes through the hock, 
bog spavin inside of the leg. Blood 
spavin comes in front from a puff. Bone 
spavin comes in three places: one grows 
back the other grows where the regular 
spavin comes, the other comes in front and 
shows first under the vein. 

See that a horse is wide across the stifle 
and wide below the stifle. See that the 



THE HORSE 15 

stifles are both alike and that their isn't a 
lump on one and pushes out when he is 
moved. All speed horses and driving 
horses should have a high flank so they 
will gaunt when they are moved. Look 
for low hip. See that the hips are both 
alike. See that the hair is not pushed up 
on one side and smoothed down on the 
other, for that would make a quarter of an 
inch difference. See that the hair is smooth 
on both sides. The same way with a curb. 
The hair can be turned up above and be- 
low to hide the curb. 

A driving horse wants to be narrow in 
the breast, not extra long in the back, a 
little steep in the rump. A colt wants to 
te wider in front than he is behind, a good 
muscle on the stifle so he will line up when 
he gets his growth. 

These points will be found in the book 
for all classes of horses. Turn a horse from 
the right to the left and if he is weak in 
the back he will step wide out. Turn a 
horse short around, if he is stringhalted he 
will jerk his legs up. 

The deafer a horse is the straighter he 



16 THE HORSE 

sticks up his ears and the less he works 
them. If a mean disposition, a horse will 
work his ears back and forward and under 
his upper eyelid he will show the white of 
his eye. 

Mooneyed or Weakeyed Horse. — The 
weaker the eye the straighter the ear, and 
the ear will tip over the strongest eye. The 
curl in the forehead should be above 
straight across between the eyes, the high- 
er the curl the better good point for strong 
eye. 

A driving horse should have a long slim 
neck and thin in the throaclatch, high head 
and high withers. The older they get the 
lower they will get in the back. For a 
ewe-necked horse or colt to grow them a 
good neck, pull up on the neck as they fat- 
ten. 

Look for Pollevil or Fistula. Pollevil 
comes on top of the head, fistula comes on 
the withers. Look for scars where they 
have been. Look for rupture, it comes on 
the side of the belly or close to the navel. 



THE HORSE 17 

Thick Wind, Bull Heaver or Common 

Heaver. — To test a horse with bad wind 

punch him three or four times behind the 

front leg; if bis wind is bad he will make 

a rattling noise that isn't natural. There 

is a hole in the throttle you can get your 

two fingers in, push up and squeeze and if 

he is wind broken or heavy he will cough. 

A wide open nostrils and the red shows 

lower in the nostril for heavy or bad wind. 

The nostril holes drawn close together and 

wrinkled shows they have been too hot. 

The nostrils straight up and down, wide 

and smooth between them for good wind. 

The nostrils thin and the butt of the ear 
thin for good wind. 

FOR HIGH BRED TROTTING HORSE 

The plainer the rings show below the 
pastern joints, the better are the points for 
high breeding. If the wart on the pastern 
joint is small and pointed they are half 
bred trotters, and when the wart above the 
knee is round and points up it shows trot- 
ting and draft both. This kind of a horse 
is more of a general purpose horse and is 
handy on his feet. 



18 THE HORSE 

A HORSE THAT IS ELIGIBLE TO A REGIS- 
TER 

When there is no wart on the pastern 
joints, but flat and smooth and the shorter 
the hair the better on the pastern joints. 
The splint bone shows plain and the wart 
above small and narrow. If there is just 
skin stretched over the bone below the 
hind knee, it shows high breeding on a colt 
or old horse. The sharper the bone at the 
neck and the sharper the bone between the 
ears the higher they are bred young or old. 
The ring shows plainly below the pastern 
joints. 

DRAFT BROOD MARE 

Wide forehead, wide between the eyes 
and a good sized eye, wide between the 
ears, a heavy neck and not too full in the 
throatlatch, wide between the points of 
shoulders that would give a good heavy 
breast, that would denote strength, a good 
heavy bone from the breast to the hoof and 
a heavy knee, a good sized foot and round, 
heavy in the withers, heavy and short in 
the back and wide in the kidnevs, wide in 



THE HORSE ; 19 

the hips and full, low in the flank, heavy 

in the stifle, wider in front than behind, a 

flat bone and a heavy knee, a good heavy 

pastern joint and not too much flesh in 

front, short from the knee to the pastern 

joint and short from the pastern joints to 

the hoof, a heavv tail bone and heavy 

mane and tail. These are breeding points 

for draft. Look for these points in pick- 
ing a draft colt. 

A DRAFT STALLION 

First see that he has not a roman nose 

nor dish face. A good wide mouth and 

wide above the nostrils. See that the 

bone above the eye is not too heavy. That 

is one of the points for rough breeding. 

Not too large an ear and not set too much 

to the side of the head. A horse should be 

wide between the eyes. The eye not too 

small nor too dark. The hazel eye is a 

good eye, not too heavy around the heart 

nor too thick in the throatlatch. Heavy 

in the shoulders and wide in the breast. 

A heavy bone from the shoulder to the foot. 

Round foot and not too flat; not too high 
in the withers; short in the back; wide 



20 THE HORSE 

across the kidneys; wide in the hips and 
full down to the tail bone; a heavy stifle 
and a low flank; a round rib and not too 
flat; not too crooked in the hind leg. The 
leader on the hock to run up heavy. 
Short from the pastern joint to the knee; 
short from the pastern joint to the hoof, 
with a good heavy flat knee, not too much 
flesh in front of the pastern joint. 

HOW TO TELL THE AGE OF A HORSE 

As a horse grows older the tips of the 
ears lean forward. Look for a crease in 
the lower eyelid that comes at nine years 
of age and one comes every year after that. 
The chin is sharp when a horse is young 
and as they grow older the chin gets flater. 
The older the horse the sharper the jaw 
bone. 

POINTS FOR GOOD WIND ON A TRACK 
HORSE OR ON ANY KORSE 

The open part of the ear at the bottom, 
take your two fingers and put the ear be- 
tween and the thinner the better. The nos- 
trils straight up and close together is a 
good point. The wider the nostrils apart 



- THE HORSE 21 

at the bottom and the smoother between, 
the better are the points. The outside of 
the nostrils, put between your fingers and 
the thinner and more solid the better. 

BAD WIND ON ANY HORSE 

The closer the nostrils are together and 
the thicker and softer the outside of the 
nostril is a sign that they have been too 
hot. Put the open part of the ear between 
the fingers and if it is thick, also if the 
crease below the ear at the neck, when you 
push in on it is soft and deep are good 
points for bad wind. If there are lumps 
under the throat and at the butt of the ear 
it is a sign that they make a noise when 
they are moved. When the nostrils turn 
out and open at the top and red on the in- 
side are good points for a heaver. 

Gravel or Irritation, of the Bladder. — This 
is a disease that, in some respects, resemb- 
les gravel. When the urine drops into the 
bladder they feel like they want to urinate, 
then they will squat. 

Give about a teaspoonful of baking soda 
or bicarbonate of soda. Give three times 



22 THE HORSE 

a day for a week, then give nitrate of pot- 
ash in teaspoonful doses twice a day for a 
week, then give soda again. 

To Remove Warts. — If they are very 
large it is best to cut them out. If they 
are bloody warts, sprinkle sulphate of zinc 
or white vitriol on them. If the warts are 
hard, get some nitric acid, make a small 
swab and put the acid on with it. This 
will burn them off. 

Thrush in Horses, — Take calomel and 
put into the crack of the hoof, and then put 
cotton in to hold the calomel. 

Another remedy is to take blue vitriol 
and pulverize it, and put it on the bottom 
of the foot and in the craks. Mix lard 
with it and spread it all around the foot. 

Another good remedy is soft soap and 

coal oil. Make it into a paste and apply 

with a rag wrapped on a stick. Make it 
thick enough to work good. 

Levered Leg. — Caused by a strain or a 
bruise. 

Cure. — Take clay and salt and mix to- 
gether, about one-fifth salt; make a thin 



THE HORSE 23 

batter and bind on, and if this fails, blister. 

If there are any sores they should be 
healed first. 

A horse with a fleshy leg is apt to have 
a fevered leg. 

In case of colic and the horse is loose in 
the bowels, give him something to bind 
him up. If you have got no medicine for 
this purpose, give one quart of strong, hot 
coffee. Repeat in one half hour if needed. 

A quart of sage tea with a spoonful of 
turpentine is also good. Don't forget to 
use plenty of hot water on the back until 
the horse gets relief. 

Big Head. — Comes between the eye and 
nose, sometimes both sides are affected, 
raises up in a lump. Weak eyes will some- 
times cause a lump to raise below the eye. 

Cure. —Take May-apple root and boil 
until thick and strain and bathe. Corro- 
sive liniment if other should fail. 

Proud Flesh — This comes on an old sore 
and swells up and looks red or blood color- 
ed. Apply burnt alum. 



24 THE HORSE 

To Find if a Horse is Lame in the Foot. — 
Take up the foot and tap on it with a ham- 
mer, and when you strike the place the 
horse will flinch. 

To Make a Horse Look Sleek.- -Rub with 
a rag with a little coal oil on it. 

To Grow Hair on an Old Sore. — Use 
sweet oil or fresh butter without salt. 

Chills. — When a horse has chills it is 
generally the forerunner of some other 
disease. Give about five times as much 
quinine as a person takes in one ounce of 
water. 

Another good remedy for chills is a pint 
of calamus tea. 

To Grow Hair on Mane or Tail. — Take, 
a tablespoonful of coal oil in a gallon of 
water and wash once a day. • 

Poison. — To tell whether a horse is poi- 
soned, pour a little water on his back and 
rub. If he is poisoned it will lather like 
soap suds. Horse has same symptoms of 
lung fever* 

Cure. — Give the horse a pint of sweet 



THE HORSE 25 

oil or lard and six e^gs broken into it, and 
then move the bowels by giving a table- 
spoonful of aloes dissolved in water, or a 
pound of salts. 

Corns. — They are usually the result of 
bad shoeing. 

Use sugar of antimon) , as for hoofbound., 

Coffin Joint Strain. — The horse should 
not be worked while doctoring. 

The majority of cases are incurable. 

Bathe with turpentine and coal oil, equal 
parts. 

Side Bones. — They come in the side of 
the hoof and grow about the hoof. They 
sometimes lame a horse and sometimes go 
away without hurting a horse. 

Remedy. — Cut the hair off close and use 
spavin remedy freely to stop the growth. 

Ring Bone. — Cut off the hair and use 
spavin remedy three times —twice the first 
day and once the second day. 

Scratches and Grease Heel. — Use hot 
wood ashes. Take on a shovel and throw 
on. Also take one part calomel and three 



26 THE HORSE 

parts lard. Apply every day until cured. 

Laxative Drench — Physic. — 

Barbadoes aloes, 3 to 5 drachms. 
Castor oil, 3 to 6 oz. 
Carbonate of soda, 2 drachms. 
Mint water, 8 oz. 
Mix by dissolving the aloes in the mint 
water, by the aid of heat, and then adding 
the other ingredients. 

For Pinkeye Distemper in Horses. — Bind 
the legs with dry mustard, ground, and 
bound on with cloths; also sprinkle on 
back from withers to kidneys. Take a 
grain sack and place in it a bucket of boil- 
ing water and put the horse's head or nose 
in the mouth of the sack so that he will get 
the steam. 

Shock for Horses or Cattle.— For all ail- 
ments requiring quick relief, or for nervous 
or spinal trouble, for spasmodic colic, lung 
fever or milk fever in cows, or any kind of 
founder, for cow or horse: Take one tea- 
spoonful of gunpowder and place it in a 
tablespoon and hold it six inches below the 
nose and light with match or paper fuse. 



THE HORSE 27 

Rheumatism. — 

Iodide of potassia, i oz. 
Water, i pt. 
lablespoonful three times a day. 

Mexican Mustang Liniment. — Petroleum 
oil, olive oil and carbonate of ammonia, 
equal parts; mix. 

For Bad Cuts or Kicks on Horses y Caus- 
ing Inflammation or Great Pain. — Take a 
bucketful of wood ashes and put two gals, 
of boiling water over them and strain, and 
add corn meal to make a mush of it and 
bind on with cloths while hot and keep 
cleaning them and ke^p them hot for six 
hours, or until relieved. 

Stringhalt Horse Remedy. — Camphor and 
butter, equal parts, and as much alco- 
hol as camphor and butter together, and 
mix. Rub on twice a day for two days, 
and in week repeat the dose. 

For Wire Cut or Kick on Horse. — Burnt 
alum and calomel, equal parts. Put calo- 
mel in after alum is burned. Sprinkle on 
cut. 



28 THE HORSE 

Ointment for Horse. — 4 oz. resin, 4 oz. 
beeswax, 8 oz. lard, 2 oz. honey. Mix 
slowly and gently bring to a boil; then add 
less than one pint spirits of turpentine; 
then remove and stir till cool. Unsurpass- 
ed for horseflesh. 

To Stop Bleeding from a Wound. — Make 
an application of dry manure, and it will 
stop the bleeding of a wound at once. 

An Easy Cure for Glanders.— One oz. 
rock alum, one oz. white vitriol; powder 
these well and put them into a pint of warm 
vinegar, and syringe about one pint up the 
nostrils each day. 

Recipe ±or Heaves in Horse. — Use wild 
morning glory seed, one tablespoonful 
twice a day for five days, then wait four or 
hve days and give the same for four or five 
days more. This is a sure cure. 

Sweeney on a Horse. — Take turpentine 
and coal oil, half and half, rub well with 
the hand until it gets warm, then rub the 
medicine on until the hair is wet. Use 
morning and evening and again the follow- 
ing morning, making three treatments in 



THE HORSE 29 

all. This remedy is used for Hip, Bone, 
Muscle and Breast Sweeney. 

Thoroughpin on Horse.— Use same rem- 
edy as used for Sweeney. Put on until the 
skin raises and yellow water oozes out. 
This will stop the growth, and if they are 
not too bad, will cure them. 

Remedy for Sore Shoulder on a Horse. — 
Alcohol, turpentine and fish oil, equal 
parts; mix w T ell and rub on shoulder. 



VALUABLE RECIPES 



No. i. For the Cure of Pollevil and Fis- 
tula. — Twenty-five cents worth of Caustic 
and Calomel, equal parts — put the two in- 
gredients in a bottle with an ounce of 
water; using a syringe to apply it in the 
opening place, or places of the diseased 
parts. 

No. 2. For the Cure of a Horse After 
Hard Driving, when the leaders become sore 
and affected. — Take one quart of Gasoline 



30 THE HORSE 

to a dime's worth of Gum Camphor; mix 
and apply on the leaders and pastern joints, 
and on the bottom of the foot. In using 
Gasoline be careful, in all cases, to keep 
away from fire and the light of a candle — 
to avoid accidents. 

For Neuralgia — The above preparation 
is equally good. Apply on the pastern 
joints, rubbing on good. 

No. 3. For the Cure of a Horse Unable 
to Make Water. — Make a quart of Cuckle 
Burr Tea. Get a quart of the burrs and 
use water sufficient to make one quart of 
the tea. Put the preparation in a bottle 
and drench the animal well. 

No. 4. Another Recipe r or the Same Pur- 
pose. — Buchu, one ounce, and Spirits Nitre, 
one ounce: mix together, with one-fourth 
of a pint of warm water; put in a bottle 
and drench. 

No. 5. Physic for Horse or Cow. — Take 
Burdock Root and make one- half gallon 
tea; put in one pint of salt and let dissolve. 
May be used with good effect on either 
cow or horse. 



THE HORSE 31 

No. 6. Another Physic for Horse or Cow. 
Take a pint and a half of melted Lard and 
the same quantity of Molasses, and, after 
warming sufficiently to make the ingredi- 
ents mix well together, drench the animal 
affected. In bad cases, use the above pre- 
paration; if the case is not so bad, use less. 

No. 7. For a Sore Shoulder or Neck on a 
Horse. — Use Arnica; applying frequently. 

No. 8. To Make a Liniment for the Cure 
of a Swelling or Bruise. — Take one pint of 
Cider Vinegar, one pint of Turpentine, and 
the white of two eggs; mix together and 
let stand one-half a day, when it will be 
ready for use. Apply frequently to the 
swelling or part affected. 

No. 9. For a Horse Having Fits. — Give 
the horse a tablespoonful of Gympson Seed 
every day for five days; then wait ten days, 
when you should give the same amount for 
five days longer. If you can find out about 
the time the fits come on, use the medicine 
six days before the fits come on. This will 
afford great relief, if it does not entirely 
cure. ^ 



32 THE HORSE 

No. 10. For the Cure of a Bloated Cow. — 
Take hold of the tongue and pull briskly 
back and forward until it makes her belch. 

No. n. To Make a Horse Sleek and 
Clean Of the Dandruff or Dust. — Take a 
horse bru^h, wet it and rub the currv comb 
over it; then rub the horse with the brush. 
This will clean the horse and make him 
look clean and sleek, if properly applied 
once a day for three or four days. 

No. 12. How to Control a Horse and 
Hitch Him Up. — Put fifteen drops of Sweet 
Annis under the upper lip and in the nos- 
trils. If the horse is a little wild, use a 
few more drops. Let him stand fifteen or 
twenty minutes and then hitch up. 

No. 13. To Prevent a Cow From Sucking 
Herself. — Scrape an Indian turnip, put in 
flour and water, and make a paste. Make 
it strong with the turnip, then spread upon 
the udders. 

No. 14. Another remedy is to take Cay- 
enne Pepper and make a strong paste with 
flour and water and apply as above. 



THE HORSE 33 

No. 15. To Prevent a Horse From Biting. 
— Throw Cayenne Pepper in his mouth. 
This, if used every time a horse attempts 
to bite you will soon be relieved from this 
trouble. 

No. 16. Use Cocaine in a horse's eyes 
to clean off the scum when moon-eyed or 
hurt. Blow six drops of the preparation in 
the eye with a quiJl; get five cents worth 
of Cocaine powder and put in an ounce 
vial w T ith the water. Use twice a day for 
two days and then once a da\ for three 
days. 

No. 17. Use Cocaine — eighteen drops — 
in the frog of the foot of a horse, which 
will numb the pain and make the horse 
walk better for the time being. 

No. 18. Spavin Recipe For Horse. — A 
wooden bucketful of Honeysuckle roots, 
boiled down in twenty gallons of water to 
less than three pints; then strain and put 
lard in sufficient to make a paste thick 
enough to spread on. This will relieve 
and cure both Spavin and Ringbone; put 
on according to the size of the Spavin, 



34 THE HORSE 

twelve times, if large; less, if small; then 
wait four or five days, and apply again, if 
not relieved, four or five days. This ab- 
sorbs the bone, making it come out through 
the skin. 

No. 19. To Cure Mange On a Horse. — 
This is a skin disease and may be cured by 
the use of two ounces of Creolene in two 
gallons of water, and wash twice a day 
until relief is secured. 

No. 20. Another Remedy for the Cure of 
Mange. — Take a quart of Rainwater and 
Salt and Tar Soap (using salt sufficient to 
make a strong solution, or lather); apply 
on one-fourth of a horse at a time; then 
give time to let dry, when apply again to 
other parts in like proportion, letting dry 
again — then apply in similiar manner un- 
til the animal has been entirely gone over. 
This preparation is so strong that horses 
will not endure being gone all over at one 
time. This preparation may have to be 
used several times before relief is afforded. 

No. 24. How to Know a Dummy Horse. 
— Before you buy a horse, tramp from the 



THE HORSE 35 

pastern joint down to the hoof. The dull- 
er he is in the feet the slower he will pick 
them up. A regular "dummy" won't pick 
up^his feet at all. You may peel the skin 
off and yet he will not move. 

N*o. 25. In feeding Cattle, frequently 
they are physiced too much. To prevent 
this, a tablespoonful of Alum, put in a 
little meal in a pan, and fed the animal 
affected twice a day for the first day and 
once the next day until relief is afforded. 

No. 23. How to Grow Hair on a Horse 
having had a sore or callous, which has been 
healed up, — Take a pint of Dead Honey 
Bees, burn them to ashes, and then put in 
sufficient Sweet Oil to make a paste. Ap- 
ply every day until the hair appears. This 
will make the hair grow if anything will 

No. 24. To Treat a Wire Cut on a Horse 
or Cow.- -Carbolic Acid, a teaspoonful to a 
quart of water. To take more, a table- 
spoonful to a half gallon of water. Use 
three times a day on the part or parts in- 
jured. A syringe will be found useful in 
applying it. If a syringe is not at hand, 



36 THE HORSE 

make one from an alder, similiar to those 
used by the boys for "squirt guns." 

SPASMODIC COLIC RECIPES 

Symptoms. — The horse lies down and 
gets up often, rolls and tumbles about, 

looks at his flanks; his ears and legs are 
often cold. 

No. 25. Rub three ounces of Turpen- 
tine, half behind the front leg, and the 
other half behind under the flank on the 
veins; use the other side the same way; al- 
so rub the substance under the lip and in 
the nostrils. 

No. 26. Take a Dog Button and pul- 
verize it: put in a half pint of warm water, 
and then drench the animal with it. 

No. 27. Take Laudanum, one ounce; 
Sulphuric Ether, one ounce; half pint water 
(milk warm); drench, and if not better in 
half an hour, bleed through the nostrils 
and repeat the dose. 

No. 28. Take piece the size of the end 
of your thumb from the wart on the horse's 
leg, cut it up fine and put in a pint of 
whiskey and drench. 



THE HORSE 37 

No. 29. Calomel, one-half drachm; 
Opium, ten grains; Ginger, three drachms; 
Rhubarb, three drachms; make into one 
pill, and give at one dose. Repeat in two 
hours if not relieved. 



Ropes and Bridles for Control of a Horse— For Kick- 
ing, Leading, Rearing Jumping and 
Running Away 

Make a loop that will not slip seven or 
eight inches long on end of rope. Slip 
over under jaw, bring from right, over neck 
to left side of head, then under lip to right 
side, then upward across top of head behind 
ears, then down on left side through the 
loop. If you want to change to other side 
just reverse. Can bemused single or double. 

For Rearing. — Tie ring in end of rope, 
stick other end of rope through ring to 
form a loop over under jaw T ; when they 
rear, loop draws tight; bring back between 
front limbs to girth and fasten. Can be 
used for ridingor driving. 

To Keep Most of Horses Quiet While Shoe- 



38 THE HORSE 

ing. — Use rope with ring in end; lay ring 
on top of head behind the ears, downward, 
on right side, under upper lip, then upward 
on left side; through ring, and pull down. 

For Control of Wild Horse in Stable. — Use 
rope with ring, get above the horse; form 
loop through ring and slip over horse's 
head; draw easily, then come down; keep 
hold of rope; open door and let horse out. 
If he runs or fights choke him. After he 
gets down, use bridle as in No. 30. 

For Runaway Single Horses. — Use rope 
with ring and form loop in rope; put loop 
over upper lip, upward between ears; back 
through harness ring, and then back to 
buggy. Tie to nose piece and between 
ears to keep from slipping. 

Colt Bridle. — Make loop in end of 15-foot 
rope long enough to go around colt's neck, 
bring rope forward on right side through 
mouth; then back on left side through loop 
that goes around neck. Pull sideways un- 
til colt comes to you, then pat him on the 
nose to get control of him. 

For Horses that Scare and Run Away. — 



THE HORSE 39 

Use rope with small ring in end, loop 

around under jaw, bring end of rope 

through outside bridle ring on near horse, 

then across nose and through other bridle 

ring, through inside hame ring of off horse 

and back to lines. If used on two horses, 

use same as before. This is intended to be 

used on horses that have habit of running 
away. 

Easier Way To Rope Runaway Horse. — 
Tie rope to inside bridle ring, bring under 
jaw through outside ring across nose 
through inside bridle ring, then back 
through inside hame ring to lines. Tie 
rope to outside bridle ring, pass around 
under lower jaw and through inside bridle 
ring, then through ring in buggy pole, or 
wagon tongue, back to buggy or wagon. 

To Throw a Horse. — First, put a surcingle 
around the horse, then fasten a ring on top 
of horse's back to the surcingle. Second, 
put a crupper on the horse and fasten the 
end to ring in surcingle; then put a rope 
around the horse's neck like you were going 
to tie it, then forward on left side through 
the mouth back on the right side through 



40 THE HORSE 

the loop; then through the ring on top of 

horse's back; then tie left leg up with strap. 

After leg is tied one man may push his 

head to the right and another man pull 

the rope and the horse will fall over on 

left side and will not be able to get up un- 
til strap is unbuckled. 

For a Horse To Break Himself from Kick- 
ing, — Put the harness on a horse with the 
exception of lines, and tie the tugs in rings 
in breeching. Cross holdback straps un- 
der horse and fasten to shaft carriers, to 
keep horse from kicking harness off. Use 
double rope long enough to put under up- 
per lip and then up over head between the 
ears and fasten to head stall of bridle; then 
back through each ring on back band; then 
back under tail and draw up and tie ti^ht. 
Draw rope together and tie about six 
inches above to keep rope from slipping off. 
Take a grain sack with four or five ears of 
corn and tie to horse's tail or crupper, then 

turn out in a lot and let him go until he 
breaks himself. 

To Work a Kicking Horse Single, — Take 
two ropes, tie one end of each to bridle bit 



THE HORSE 41 

rings, bring upward over horse's head be- 
tween the ears, then back through rings on 
back band and through crupper and tie on 
each side of horse to shafts. Fasten ropes 
in top of horse's head to headstall of bri- 
dle to keep them from slipping off. 

To Break a Horse From Halter Pulling.— 
Buckle a strap with a ring on it around 
each hind leg below the pastern joint; 
double a rope and tie each end into rings 
on hind feet; then pass through a rope or 
to hold ropes up; then between fore legs 
and through halter ring and tie to hitching 
post or manger and if the horse pulls he 
will pull his hind feet from under him. 

To Break a Horse From Kicking to Plow 
or Harrow. — Buckle a ring to each hind leg 
below the pastern joint and one to each 
fore leg above the knee; take two ropes, 
tie one to each ring on hind legs and pass 
one through each ring on fore legs, and 
fasten to each side of bridle bit, and if he 
kicks it will pull his fore feet from under 
him. 



42 THE HORSE 

No. 30 To Drop a Horse on His Front 
Knees. — Put a rope around the body, and 
put two rings six inches apart, and buckle 
two rings on each front leg below the pas- 
tern joint in front; tie the rope to the left 
ring on the left leg, then through the ring 
on the left side; then down through the 
ring on the right foot, then through the 
ring on the right side, and then back to 
the line. When he gets to kicking or run- 
ning you can throw him on his front knees. 
Pad his knees with an old piece of carpet 
or something else at easy command to 
keep from hurting him. 

No. 31. A Horse That Is a Halter Pull- 
er. — Tie a ring in the end of a rope and 
around the body and stick the end of the 
rope through the ring, then take the rope 
between the front legs, then through the 
halter ring and tie it to the manger. This 
can be used for a balker by tying to the 
end of the wagon tongue. When he pulls 
back it will draw on his body and make 
him step up. 



THE HORSE 43 

No. 32. To Harness a Mean Colt or 
Mule. — Take a rope and double it and 
make the rope even, then tie a knot in 
double end, one foot and a half from the 
double end, then lay it across the back 
then buckle two rings below the pastern 
joints, on the hind leg below the pastern 
joint, then buckle the left front foot up; 
then tie the rope in the lett ring in the hind 
foot; now let the front foot down and 
buckle the right front foot up, and then 
fasten the rope to the ring in the right hind 
leg, and tie another short rope in front of 
the hind legs; the rope should go on both 
sides of the neck and hind leg to keep him 
from kicking sideways. After getting the 
beast harnessed, take off the little rope and 
leave the other rope on until the animal 
will stand to be harnessed. 

No. 33. To Stop a Horse Jumping.— 
Buckle four rings around each pastern 
joint; tie a rope around the body with two 
rings six inches apart; then take a rope and 
in a ring on the front leg and then through 
the ring under the horse to the ring on the 



44 THE HORSE 

hind foot. Perform the same operation on 
the right side, then tighten the rope and 
lead the animal around a little before let- 
ting him go. 

No. 34. A Balking Horse. — Buckle two 
rings fast to the hip strap each of them 
one foot long; double the rope and put un- 
der the tail through each ring and fasten to 
the outside harne ring of the balking horse 
and then take it across the true horse's 
back to the outside ham ring. Push the 
true horse back and pull the balker up 
and tighten the rope and start the true 
horse. This will move him. 

No. 35. Spinning a Mean Horse. — 1 ie a 
rope to his bridle bit; then tie a loop in 
his tail; stick the rope through the loop, 
then pull on the rope or tie his head to 
his tail, if he can't be controlled otherwise. 

No. 36. Another Halter Puller. — Take a 
rope twenty feet long and double it, and 
put through the halter ring; then back 
around both hind feet below the pastern 
joints between the front legs. Then pass 
the rope under the ropes and over the neck 



THE HORSE 45 

between the breast and halter ring, so that 
if the halter would tear the rope would 
hold him; afterwards to the manger or 
post, whichever is most convenient; then 
watch the animal when pulling that he 
don't hurt himself unnecessarily. 

No. 37. To Teach a Horse Tricks. — 
Teaching a horse to talk by nodding or 
shaking his head. When you want a horse 
to shake his head stand by the side of him 
at the shoulder and prod him with a pin 
where the collar rubs the hair off the mane. 
Prod him until he shakes his head, then 
rub the place where you stuck the pin; 
then stick him again, when he will shake 
his head on asking him about moldy 
corn or oats, whether he likes to work. 
When again you prod him he will invar- 
iably shake his head. This is the way to 
learn him. 

No. 38. To Make a Horse Nod His Head. 
— Step back to where the buggy harness 
works and prod him with a pin; then rub 
the place and stick him again until he 
nods, and then ask him whether he wants 
good oats or corn; afterwards step forward 



46 THE HORSE 

again and prod him again until he shakes 
his head; then step back and prod him un- 
til he nods his head again; after which 
step forward and hold your hand up until 
he shakes his head and then step back and 
hold your hand up until he nods. This is 
the way to teach him to do these tricks. 

No. 39. The Trick to Teach a Horse to 
Stand on his Hind Feet. — Prod him low 
down on the breast with a pin, pull up on 
the strap of the bridle at the same time; 
keep on doing this until he stands on his 
hind feet. 

No. 40. To Teach a Horse to ShakeHands 
— Prod him on the inside of the right front 
knee, taking hold of his foot at the same 
time; then, by proding or sticking him 
again and taking hold of the foot at the 
same time, you learn him to hand up his 
foot when you tell him to "shake hands/' 

No 41. The Trick to Teach a Horse to 
Lay Doiim--t > ut a pin in a little short 
whip, and with this hit him on the back 
part of the left knee, holding him with the 
bridle at the same time. Do this until you 



THE HORSE 47 

get him to lay down a few times, then take 
the pin out of the whip, after which tap 
him with the end of the whip at the same 
place. This will teach him to lay down, 
as you want hin to do. 

No. 42. The Trick to Drive a Horse With- 
out Lines. — To stop a horse, hold the whip 
straight up; if you want to start him, lay 
the whip down straight with the horse. 
When you want him to turn to the left, 
turn your whip in that direction. If you 
want him to go in a circle keep your whip 
close to his body. If you want him to go to 
the right, turn your whip in that direction; 
also, if you want him to turn in a circle to 
the right, hold the whip close to the body 
on the right side; if yo u want the horse to 
stop, bring the whip to the center of his 
body; then by raising the whip up in a 
straight position, the horse will stop. To 
teach these tricks quickly, take a bridle 
without blinds, put on a severe bit, then 
pulling on the lines give him a pretty 
severe surge. This will teach the horse to 
go in whatever direction you may indicate 
by your whip. Use him this way with the 



48 THE HORSE 

lines f after which, if you desire, you may 
use him withovi the lines by the motion of 
the whip alone. 

No. 43. How to Tell the Weakest Eye in 
a Horse, when sitting in the rig or vehicle he- 
hind him. — The ear will stand the straight- 
er up on the side of the weaker eye. On 
the side of the head of the good eye, the 
end of the ear will incline to tip over. 
Watch this and you will discover the weak- 
er eye of the horse. 

No. 44. The better the wind of a hors e 
the straighter the nostril. To try a horse's 
wind, take the thumb and finger of the left 
hand and squeeze behind the throttle on the 
throat, putting your fingers in the crease, 
push up and squeeze. This w 7 ill make a 
horse cough if he is troubled with heaves- 
or bad wind. 

No. 45. How to Fix a Horse to File His 
Teeth. — Take a plow clevis and put in his 
mouth, then take a file with a long handle 
and file the sharp edge off the jaw teeth. 
File both sides the same way. ' 

No. 46. If you want to kill lice on your 



THE HORSE 49 

chickens in the coop or other places, take a 
watering can and make a strong salt water 
preparation and sprinkle it around the 
coop or other places where the chickens 
congregate. 

Note. — Don't forget to keep brimstone 
on hand. Look up the recipe in this pam- 
phlet. It will be proper in bad cases to 
use a greater quantity than stated — four 
table spoonfuls may be necessary in some 
bad cases. 

Horse That is Bound Up.- -How to tell: 
They will turn their upper lips up, and 
will lie pretty still. Sometimes, when not 
so bad and it is pretty hard to tell just 
what is the matter with them, they will 
get up and go to eating; they will paw 
and lie down if not too bad; if they are, 
give them physic. 

Raw Flaxseed Oil, i pt. 

Turpentine, i tablespoonful. 

Punchered Sore on a Horse. — The flesh 
turns out and looks red. Get pulverized 

Blue Vitriol and sprinkle it on. The best 
way to use it is to take a baking powder 



5a THE HORSE 

can and punch holes in the lid from the in- 
side out. This can be used for proud flesh. 

To Fatten a Horse. — Get Red Pacoon 
root, and take roots enough to make three 
times the length of your finger, put in a 
pint of Cider Vinegar, give a tablespoonful 
twice a day in the feed. Fill second time 
with Vinegar and the third time with roots 
and Vinegar both. 

A Remedy For a Weak or Mooneyed Horse, 
This is an extra good remedy. — One pint of 
Linseed Oil, two ounces Gum Camphor, 
one-half ounce Spirits of Ether, one tea- 
spoonful of Salt, twelve drops Cocane. 
Take a feather and put in the eye twice a 
day. 

Remedy for a Weakeyed Horse. — Five cents 
worth of Cocane, if in powder put in 
water, put in an ounce bottle or if it is in 

liquid, give six drops twice a day for either 
one until the eye clears up. 

Another Remedy. — Holland Oil, in ten 
cent bottles, drop around the eye and a 
little at the corner. 

To Stop Blood from a Cut of any Kind on 



THE HORSE 51 

a Horse. — Put clay or dirt right on the cut 
and bind it up. 

Remedy for Wire Cuts or Sore Shoulder on 
a Horse. — Three pints raw Linseed Oil, 
one ounce Oil of Organum, one ounce Oil 
of Cedar, one ounce Oil of Hemlock, one 
ounce Oil of Sassafras, two and one-half 
ounces pulverized Gum Camphor. Put in 
a new stone jug, let stand thirty-six hours. 
Shake the jug frequently. 

Remedy for Cough for a Horse, — Two- 
fifths of Ginger of amount wanted, two- 
fifths Slacked Lime, one-fifth Ashes, give 
one tablespoonful twice a day. This is as 
good a cough remedy as you can use. 

A Remedy for Horse Colic. One-half 
ounce of Jamaica Ginger, one-half ounce 
of Laudanum, one ounce nitre. Give dose 
every thirty minutes. 

Col. Horn Wants to See the Man that 
can Furnish a Better Remedy for Cure of 
Fistula or Pollevil. — One ounce pulverized 
Spanish Fly, one ounce Blue Stone, Lard 
to make salve, apply salve to swelling. If 
mattered cut open and put on inside. 



52 THE HORSE 

Remedy for Fistula on Horse.— Carbolic 
acid, put cotton on end of a stick and swab 
out sore, then put medicine in. 

Another Remedy for Fistula -One pint 
pure Cider Vinegar, one pint Turpentine, 
one ounce Nitric Acid, a five cent cake of 
Castile soap. 

Also for Fistula — Get Amber Oil; put 
cotton on the end of a stick and put medi- 
cine in sore to eat pipes out. Take a little 
salt water and wash out good before ap- 
plying the second time. 

For Fistula on Horse. — One ounce Chlo- 
ride of Zinc; put in sore twice a day then 
wait a day. After using tirst time weak- 
en a little. 

Another Remedy for Ftstula on Horse — 
To be used before it breaks. As soon as it 
swells use recipe as it says Corrosive Lini- 
ment. One ounce Corrosive Sublimate, 
one ounce Gum Camphor, one-half pint 
Turpentine. Put this on heavy the first 
thing in the morning and let stand until 
noon, then take a cup and pour on about 
one gallon of water (in cold weather use 
water a little warm). Repeat this until 



THE HORSE 53 

you have used three doses of liniment, 
making each dose about twelve hours 
apart, and the water should te used be- 
tween the doses. Use the water until the 
fever has disappeared and then you will 
have control of the disease. 

Fistula on Horse. — Use Ashes of burnt 
corn cobs after the sore has broken open. 
Then fill the pipes with these ashes which 
will rot. them so that you can pull them 
out. 

Fistula on Horse.— -Take a small sack 
and fill with salt and put sack over the 
sore, then pour water on the sack and let 
it run into the sore. 

Fistula or Pollevil on Horse. — Pulverized 
Blue Vitriol, put in a baking powder can 
with small holes In the lid from the inside 
out and sprinkle it on. Put Lard on below 
the sore for all these remedies to keep the 
medicine from taking the hair off. Take a 
stick and wrap a rag around it and wash 
out the sore so that you will not need to 

use your hands. If am of the prescriptions 
are not enough to cure, use more. 



54 THE HORSE 

For Distemper ', Fistula and Pollevil and 
also a Bruised Shoulder, or where there is 
likely to be Puss. — Press down with finger 
and if it stays down and parts it is ready 
to open and when it pops up right away 
leave it a few days. If you have a bruised 
shoulder on a horse take Turpentine and 
Coal Oil, equal parts. This draws it from 
inside out to the place of letting it gather. 

Recipes to close Heaves on a Horse for 
Trading. — White Antimony, about half 
what your thumb nail would hold for a 
dose. Put back on the tongue and drive. 

Calomel about what you can put on the 
end of a pen knife and put back on the 
tongue and drive. Use these remedies ac- 
cording to how bad the heaves are. 

A Remedy for a Bloated Cow.— Pour cold 
water on the back. 

Another Remedy. — Pull the tongue back 
and forward to make them belch. 

To Keep a Cow from Jumping. — Cut the 
upper eye winkers off close. 

To keep a Mule from Jumping. — Put a 



THE HORSE 55 

hog ring in the top of each ear and tie 
them together. 

Texas Itch on a Horse. — Sheep dip, and 
wet the skin, the next morning, wash off. 
Then put on again, then wash off again, it 
will take three times to kill the disease in 
this manner. 

To Kill Lice on Horses, Cattle, or Hogs. — 
One pint of Lard, two tablespoonsful of 
Coal Oil. Commence above the eyes and 
put clear to the tail, rubbing along the 
back-bone, about four inches wide. 

A horse that is sick, the more fever he 
has, the less water he will drink. 

A horse that is poisoned is hard to doc- 
tor, because they have no gall. 

A Horse Powder. — 
Salt; 2 qts. 
Linseed meal, 2 qts. 
Wood ashes, 2 qts. 
Fine tobacco, 2 qts. 
Slacked lime, 2 qts. 
Sulphur, 1 lb. 
Copperas, \ lb. 
Alum, i lb 
Sift and mix together. 



56 THE HORSE 

Give tablespoonful to horses and cattle; 
a teaspoonful to an old hog, and not so 
much to younger hogs according to age. 
For chickens, two tablespoonfuls to one 
gallon of feed. 

Sore Shoulder. — 

For a horse with a sore shoulder take 

i pound Raisens, add i quart water, boil 

until soft and strain the juice off. Add one 

cup of Lard to this juice and boil until i t 

becomes a thick salve. Then it is ready 

for use. 

Remedy for a Horse with Heaves.— Cider 
Vinegar and Coal Oil, equal parts, one- 
half cupful at a dose, throw back on 
the tongue with a syringe. Use two or 
three times a day, according to disease. 

Heave Remedy. —Cream of Tartar, one 
tablespoonful twice a day for two weeks. 
The third week reduce the dose to one 
teaspoonful twice a day. 

When Making a Long Drive:— When you 
want to make a long drive, give your horse 
one ear of corn less for the meal before vou 
drive. And let him walk for a hundred 



THE HORSE 57 

yards or so when ever you think it nec- 
essary. And as you go along, and if your 
horse physics, slack up and let the horse 
walk a while; if you do, your horse will 
come out in good shape at the end of the 
journey, but if you don't slack up you may 
have a sick horse. 

An Excelent Remedy to Draw the Poison 
from the Wound of a Rusty Nail or any Rusty 
Piece of Iron, on a Horse. — Drop sugar on 
a few live coals and cover it with some- 
thing that has a small hole in the top, so 
the smoke can not spread out so much. 
After you have done this hold the wound 
close over the smoke for a few minutes. 
This will kill the pain, and draw the poi- 
son out, then the wound wall begin to heal. 
Use for a wire cut where there is lots of 
pain. 

A Horse Subject to Colic. — Tie a little 
piece of plug tobacco on the bridle bit, 
and work the horse. This will keep off the 
colic. 

The cause of a Sick Horse a great many 
times. — The horse has been fed too much, 
when it was not working. You should not 



58 THE HORSE 

give as much feed when the horse is not 
working. 




A Remedy jor Horse Colic.— One table - 
spoonful of Turpentine, and one ounce of 
Whiskey, repeat in one-half hour, if not re- 
lieved. 

For Founder on Horse or Cow-- Give one 
teacupful of yeast, and if this does not re- 
lieve the horse or cow, give another teacup- 
ful in one-half hour. If this is not enough 
give a dose in three or four hours. 

For Kidney Trouble on a Horse .—Get 
Sulphur and Salt Peter of equal parts/ 
And when you see the horse is off in the 
kidneys, give a teaspoonful, twice a day 
for a week, then, give one teaspoonful every 
day, until you think the horse is relieved. 
This is also a good blood remedy. 



THE HORSE 59 

How a fifteen year old Boy can pick a High 
Bred Horse or Colt. —Short hair on the pas- 
tern joints. No wart on the pastern joint, 
but flat and smooth. The wart above the 
knee long and narrow. The sharper the 
neck bone and the sharper the bone be- 
tween the ears the better. The skin stretch- 
ed tight over the bone, below the hind 
knee so the leaders show plainly. The 
ring below the pastern joint shows plain. 
This kind of a horse or colt is eligible to a 
register. 

Foot Evil in the Frog of a Horses Foot. — 
Get powdered blue vitriol and thin with 
hot lard. Clean the foot out good. Then 
put the medicine in hot, and after this is 
done put cotton in to keep the medicine in. 

For a Lump of any Kind on a Horse. — Rub 
the lump crosswise. This will reduce the 
lump quicker than any other way. 

For Astera. — Use Sulphur and Salt Peter 
to keep Astera off. A horse will fall very 
quick with this disease sometimes Use 
this remedy occasionally. It is good for 
the blood and kidneys and will keep the 
disease off. 



CATTLE 



CATTLE 




A Fullblood Jersey Cow.—k Jersey cow 
comes off short below the eye and the 
plainer it shows the more Jersey. Wide 
between the eyes, the front bone is higher 
than the back bone hehind the coupling. 
The bone must show plainly on the Jersey, 
Alderney and also on the Guernsey. Either 
of the breeds could be fullblooded and not 
have a black switch but the black switch 
is a good point for good breeding. The 
Alderney is black and the Guernsey is yel- 
low and white and sometimes a black spot 
but this does not belong to this breed The 
Alderney crossed with the Jersey is brown 
around the eyes and nose, brown on the 
shoulders and brown in the flank. The 



64 CATTLE 

Aberdeen Angus are a beef cattle and when 
they are crossed with the Jersey, which 
they do sometimes, this makes the Jerseys 
a larger cattle. They show too much 
black from head to breast and in the flank. 
This shows the cross. Be careful and 
watch these points. If you don't have to 
pay for that pedigree you can make that 
cross vourself. 




TheFullblood Holstein Cow.— The Hol- 
stein has a white spot on the forehead, 
black nose and neck, white across the 
shoulders, white across the kidneys and 
some white oa the limbs. There is" not as 
much white on the Holstein now because 
they are crossed with the Aberdeen Angus 
and show more black than white The 
Holstein crossed with the Aberdeen Angus' 
makes better beef cattle ° ' 



CATTLE 



65 




Roan Durham Heifer. —Look for the same 
points for cows or heifers as the book says 
for high breeding of any breed. 



'm. 



The FuUblood Poll Durham Cow. — The 
Poll Durham are red and they make a good 
beef cattle. If you look at the good milk 
points as the book says you will get good 
milk cows out of this stock. 



66 



CATTLE 




Roan Durham Male Calf.— The Roan 
Durham cattle are as good a stock as there 
is on the market. They are wide between 
the eyes, wide ,and short below the eyes; 
wide behind the ears; a heavy bone and a 
big foot for a male. The closer the pri- 
vates are to the belly the more sure they 
are for a male of any bred. Look for the 
points; what is said about high breed stock 
of any breed, young or old. When looking 
for a male calf, look for a big eye; and 
stands with its head up so that it shows 
the stvle. 



CATTLE 



67 




The Fullblood Hereford Heifer. — Tl e 
Hereford has a white face, while behind 
the horns, down to and from the breast in- 
cluding the belly, a white streak across the 
shoulders and sometimes white across the 
kidneys. White on the end of the tail. 




The Shorthor 7i Durham Male.— They have 
some white spots on them. They are a 
smooth built cattle. The\ 
thrifty growth cattle and easy feeders. 



are a gcod 



68 



CATTLE 




The Aberdeen Angus Male.— The Aber- 
deen Angus is black in color. They are a 
good beef cattle. They are a long, heavy, 
wellbuilt cattle but not good milkers. If 
you look for the milking points you may 
find some good milkers. 



The Devonshire Com;.— The Devons are 
recommended as an all purpose bieed for 
a farmer. In color they are red and are of 
medium size. They are fair milkers and 
good beef cattle. In a fullblood the points 
of the horns turn in, and they also have a 
fair sized ear; wide in the hips and a little 
rough. 



CATTLE 69 




The Jersey Male. — The Jersey Male has a 
yellow skin. This picture shows that he 
is crossed some with the Aberdeen Angus 
Don't get a Jersey with this cross because 
you can make that cross yourself. 



Picking Beef Cattle. — Long and straight 
in the back, wide across the forehead, a 
wide jaw. This shows a good strong feed- 
er. Short in the neck, heavy forequarter, 
heavy brisket, heavy bone, big foot, wide 
behind the shoulder, wide across the kid- 
neys, low flank, low hind-quarter and wide 
across below the tail; straight in the belly, 
broad in the hind knee, a good hay basket, 
tand up squarely and head up. These 
points are for good steers. For a heifer, 
longer and slimmer from the eyes down, 



70 CATTLE 

and look for a wide jaw of any good feed- 
er. 

How to Tell High Bred Cattle of any Breed. 
— The head higher than the shoulder, no 
low neck on young or old cattle, if low in 
neck, on a calf pull up on the neck once in 
a while as it grows which will help to 
straighten the low part of the neck. 
Straight in the back, heavy at the top of 
the tail and slim at the bottom, low in the 
flank and a long quarter, a heavy bone, 
straight in the belly, stand squarely on 
1heir feet and a low heavy brisket. For 
cows or heifers; slim in the neck, heavy in 
the forequarter, long from the eyes down 
and slim, wide between the eyes, small, 
thin ear, round at the top of the ear; the 
less hair in inside of ear shows high bred 
stock. You could see on a calf that isn't 
more than an hour old. This shows on 
any breed of stock, young or old. 

How to Tell a Good Milk Cow. — Look for 
an easy churner, yellow on the inside of 
the ear and yellow skin. The more the 
hair grows up the milk sack, the richer the 



CATTLE 71 

milk. Watch the curls and the more they 
curl up the better the milk. When the 
milk sack begins to break up one of the 
udders draws up; when two udders draw 
up on the same side the cow don't give as 
much milk on that side as the side not 
thus effected. When the sack is clear 
broken down it is slim at the top and wide 
at the bottom. For an easy milker the ud- 
ders hang down alike and are square or 
even in length. A hard milker has a long- 
pointed udder. A big milk vein is a good 
sign of lots of milk. The larger the hole 
at the navel the chances are for more milk. 
The more the sack shows in front of the 
le^ the more milk. The hair too white at 
th 3 sack or the back part of the sack, the 
chances art: for whiter cream. When the 
sack is too fleshy the udders are too far 
apart from the back part of the sack to the 
front part. No hair at all down on the 
back part of the sack and the udders 
yellow are symptoms of very rich milk. 
The chances are with these points, that the 
cream can be stirred and made into butter 
without putting the cream in the churn. 



72 CATTLE 

Any cow should be yellow from the root 
of the tail down to the bottom of the sack 
with yellow udders, no hair on the sides of 
sack next to limbs. Here are fifteen of the 
best points on a milk cow. These points 
are for a man, woman or a fifteen-year-old 
boy to tell. 

These Points On a Milk Cow are Some of 
the People 7 s Points. — i. A black tongue. 
2. Broad nose. 3. Long mouth. 4. The 
skin hanging loose on it's jaws. 5. A dish 
face. 6. Wide between the eyes. 7. A 
big eye. 8. A dent in the forehead. 9. A 
big ear. 10. A crumply horn. 11. Little 
horns. 12. A pointy brisket. 13. Heavy 
and broad brisket. 14. A big foot. 15. 
A spotted foot. 16. A slim neck. 17. 
Long in the back. 18. Wide from the 
back bone out. 19. A big stomach. 20. 
Wide in the hips. 21. A slim tail. 22. A 
black switch. 23. The navel heavy. 24. 
Up-headed with style. 25. Wide in the 
breast. 26. A yellow nose. 27. Part 
the hair, on the end of the tail is yellow. 
28. A high tail bone. 29. Wide across 
the quarters and taper forward. 30. Wide 
open nostrils. 



CATTLE 73 

POINTS ON A MILK COW 

1. Wind udder is the same thickness 
from the sack down, where other udders are 
slimmer. Squeeze on the udder and some- 
times water will come out. 

2. When you find a cow that the udder 
don't look right, you had better milk her. 

3. A cow that lets her milk down and 
then stops and lets it down again is a sign 
that most cows will stand dry too long. 

4. A two story sack is one with a crease 
across the middle of the sack behind, the 
top of the sack out and the lower part in. 
This is a good milk cow but the sack does 
not show up good. 

How to Pick a Calf for a Milk Cow. — Yel- 
low inside of the ears for an easy churner 
and yellow from the thick part of the tail 
down, where the sack ought to be and the 
hair short and curls up. These marks are 
for rich milk. These points will show on 
a calf as well as on a cow, and this kind of 
a calf will make a good milk cow when the 
time comes to be a cow. Also a large na- 
vel on heifer calf. 



74 CATTLE 

Raising Calves. — Having selected a de- 
sirable breed, the farmer should begin at 
once bestowing upon his cattle the best of 
care. Food and treatment have a great 
deal to do in determining their form, size 
and character. 

Age for Breeding. — Heifers may be put 
to breeding when they are from 15 to 18 
months old. If well cared for early breed- 
ing has but little influence on the growth 
of the cow, and it develops the milking 
qualities much better. If left until two or 
three years before breeding, cows are much 
more likely to become barren. 

Diseases of Cattle. — Although cattle 
are subject to some diseases which cannot 
be guarded against, yet most of them are 
the result of the want of care. Want of 
proper care, over-feeding or unwholesome 
food, exposure to cold winds, rain and 
snow, either of these, or all combined, 
may cause most of what are called "The 
Diseases of Cattle.' 5 

To the farmer, especially, is an ounce of 
prevention worth a pound of cure. 






CATTLE 75 

The following are some of the most com- 
mon ailments of cattle, with approved 
remedies: 

Garget. — A congestion of the udder, 
commonly known as "the caked bag." It 
most generally occurs soon after calving or 
when the cow is drying up. 

Symptoms. — Udder swollen, hot and very 
tender. Soon one of the teats begins to 
feel hard, afterwards others are implicated. 

Cause. — Garget is caused by milk coag- 
ulating in the udder, producing local in- 
flammation. 

Treatment. — Bathe the udder frequent- 
ly with warm water and rub it gently 
with the hand. A solution of bicarbonate 
of soda injected into the udder wall dis- 
solve the caked milk. It should be milked 
out after remaining in the bag ten min- 
utes. Another remedy suggested is two 
quarts of dried beans boiled and fed with 
the water. Two or three doses will effect 
a cure. As a prevention, the udder should 
be examined frequently before calving, 
and if it becomes filled with milk, should 



76 CATTLE 

be drawn. The cow should be fed spar- 
ingly with fresh hay, and when the calf is 
dropped, she should be milked frequently. 

Milk Fever. — This is a local inflamma- 
tion of the womb after calving, which 
rapidly extends to other parts until the 
whole system is implicated, and puerperal 
or milk fever appears. 

Symptoms. — The animal becomes restless 
and uneasy, red eyes, horns and head hot. 
She is irritable; at last becomes weak in 
the limbs and unable to rise; dashes her 
head about, not unfrequently breaking her 
horns. 

Cause. — Exposure at the time of, and 
after, calving; also drinking freely of cold 
water at that time. Cows that are feed 
freely on exciting food for some time be- 
fore calving are liable to have this disease. 

TkEATMENT. — If a veternary surgeon can 
be reached call him at once; if not, on the 
first appearance of symptoms, give one 
pound of epsorn salts. The bowels must 
be opened. The entire body should be 
covered with a wet sheet or blanket. The 



CATTLE 77 

best prevention of this disease is in taking 
good care of the cow before and after 
calving. 

Abortion or Premature Birth. — This 
is a disease and is considered bv manv con- 
tagious. It is known to be epidemic in 
gestation. The calf is always lost and the 
cow frequently dies. If the cow lives she 
will probably drop her next calf at about 
the same period of pregnancy. 

Symptoms. — Aversion to food, milk di- 
minishes; somewhat enlarged belly; stag- 
gers when walking; a reddish or yellowish 
fluid discharged from vagina; occurring at 
any time during the nine months of preg- 
nancv. 

ml 

Cause. — Aboration may be the result of 
fright, injur}, or improper food or water, 
diseased male, and commence with him 
after conception. 

Treatment. — Separate the cow from the 
herd. After the calf is dropped, which is 
nearly always dead, bury it deeply, with 
the afterbirth, outside of the pasture or 
yard; use disinfectants to prevent the djs- 



78 CATTLE 

ease spreading. Afterwards, the cow should 
be protected from exposure, giving no cold 
water and be fed on nourishing but not 
exciting food. Aboration becomes a habit; 
a cow that has once lost her calf prema- 
turely should not be permitted to become 
pregnant again. Fatten her for beef, for 
she is of no value as a breeder. 

Fast Driving of Cows. — It should not 
be permitted on the farm. Boys should 
not be allowed to hurry them when bring- 
ing them in for milking. 

Lost Cud. — The popular name for 
weakness is the result of indigestion, and 
may be cured by giving the animal a pint 
of raw linseed oil. 

Corn Smut. — Cattle running on stock 
fields in the winter should always have 
plenty of water. Smutty cornstalks eaten 
without a good supply of water often cause 
disease. 

Scours. — Caused by over-feeding, bad 
food or drink, damp stables, dirty sur- 
roundings. Remove cause and withhold 
feed is the best remedv. Give once dailv 



CATTLE 79 

twenty grains of potassium permagranite 
in a teacup of water. 

Another good remedy is a teaspoonful of 
alum every day until relieved. 

Lock Jaw. — A constant muscular spasm 
involving more or less the entire body. It 
is caused by entrance of tetanus germs 
through a wound. There is stiffness of the 
whole or part of the body, more frequently 
the jaws, making eating difficult or im- 
possible. 

If the animal can drink give one-half- 
ounce doses of bromide potash five times 
daily, dissolve and place on food or gruel 
or in water given to drink. Drench, and 
keep quiet. 

When a cow is having a calf always 
allow her to eat the cleanings. 

When a Cow Becomes Numb. — The 
skin on the backbone becomes tight on the 
bone. Take your hands and loosen the 
skin from the shoulders back. The wolf 
in the tail: The bone becomes soft. Pull 
the tail several times each morning for 
three mornings. Every month examine 



80 CATTLE 

the cow and see that the bone in the tail 
is not soft and that the skin on the back- 
bone is kept loose. This is what weakens 
the cow and keeps her poor, and will make 
the milk blue and the cream thin. It will 
effect a fat cow the same as a poor one. 

Swollen Udder.— To relieve this bathe 
the swollen parts in warm water in winter, 
using cold in summer. 

After Calving. — If a cow does not clean 
herself, give her warm feed, and:| as a last 
resort, give her a dog button. Sometimes 
by allowing her to drink her own milk 
will aid in cleaning. 

Before Calving. — For twelve hours be- 
fore calving a cow should not be fed 
anything, and not too much afterward. 
Always milk a cow before calving, for it 
is sometimes the cause of milk fever. 

To Remove Warts From Udder. — 
Place a thin paste or slacked lime mixed 
with water on the wart several times and 
wart will disappear. 

Tea for Calves. — In case you are feed- 
ing calves milk and run short, make a tea 



CATTLE 81 

of clover hay and pour into the milk. It 
furnishes a great amount of nutrition. 

Excess of Feed. — If a cow has had too 
much feed and is still moist on the nose 
and chews her cud she is all right. But 
when these symptons fail you should give 
her a physic at once. The following is ex- 
cellent: Six drops of croton oil in a pint 
of linseed oil, or a pint of lard. 

To Prevent a Bull From Jumping. — 
Put a wire through the nose about six feet 
long, and then double and twist it, and the 
bull will not jump. 

Calves. — Feed calves shelled corn as 
soon as you can get them to eat it. 

Some cows' milk will have the cream 
mized all through the milk in streaks. 
This kind of milk takes too long for the 
cream to raise. If you have a cow of this 
kind, keep the milk to itself. This is not 
a profitable cow to keep. 

How to Tell the Age of Cattle by 
the Teeth. — The calf at birth will usualh 
have two incisors or front teeth, in some 
cases just appearing through the gums, in 



82 CATTLE 

others fully set, varying as the cow falls 
short of or exceeds her regular time of 
calving. If she overruns several days the 
teeth will have set and attained consider- 
able size. During the second week a tooth 
will generally be added on each side, and 
before the end of the third week the ani- 
mal will generally have six incisor teeth, 
and in a week from that time the full num- 
ber of incisors have appeared. 

These teeth are temporary, and are often 
called milk teeth. Their edge is very 
sharp, and as the animal begins to live 
upon more solid food this edge becomes 
worn, showing the long part of the teeth 
beneath, and indicates with" considerable 
precision the length of time they have been 
used. The center, or oldest teeth, show 
the marks of age first, and often become 
somewhat worn before the corner teeth ap- 
pear. At eight weeks the four inch teeth 
are nearly ^s sharp as before. They ap- 
pear to be worn not so much on the outer 
edge or line of the tooth as inside this line, 
but after this the edge begins gradually to 
lose its sharpness and to present a more 



CATTLE 83 

flattened surface, while the next teeth wear 
down like the four center ones, and at 
three months this wearing off is very ap- 
parent, till at four months all the incisor 
teeth appear worn, but the inner ones 
most. Now the teeth begin slowly to 
diminish in size by a kind of contraction as 
well as wearing down, and the distance 
apart becomes more and more apparent 
The teeth keep getting smaller and farther 
apart until the calf is fifteen months old, 
when the corner teeth are not more than 
half the original size, and the center ones 
still smaller. The permanent teeth are now 
rapidly growing and preparing to take the 
place of the milk teeth, which are gradu- 
ally absorbed till they disappear or are 
pushed out to give place to the two perma- 
nent central incisors, which shows the in- 
ternal structure of the lower jaw, at this 
time, with the cells of the teeth. The two 
central ones protruding into the mouth, 
the next two pushing up, but not quite 
grown, to the surface, with the third pair 
just perceptible. These changes require 
time, and at two years past, four of the 



84 CATTLE 

permanent central incisors are seen. After 
this the other milk teeth decrease rapidly, 
but are slow to disappear, and at three 
years old the third pair of permanent teeth 
are but formed, and at four years the last 
pair of incisors will be up, but the outside 
ones are not fully grown and the beast 
can hardly be said to be full-mouthed till 
the age of five years. But before this age, 
or at the age of four years, the two inner 
pairs of permanent teeth are beginning to 
wear at the edges, while at five years old 
the whole set becomes somewhat worn 
down at the top, and on the center ones a 
dark line appears in the middle along a 
line of harder bone. Now will soon come 
a year or two, and sometimes three, when 
the teeth do not so clearly indicate the 
exact age, and the judgment must be 
guided by the extent to which the dark 
middle lines are worn. This will depend 
somewhat upon the exposure and feeding 
of the animal, but at seven years these 
lines extend over all the teeth. At eight 
years another change begins which cannot 
be mistaken. A kind of absorption begins 



CATTLE 85 

with the two central incisors, slow at first, 
but perceptible, and these two teeth be- 
come smaller than the rest, while the dark 
lines are worn into one in all but the cor- 
ner teeth, till at ten years four of the cen- 
tral incisors have become smaller than the 
corner ones, and at twelve all become 
smaller than they were, while the dark 
lines are nearly gone, except in the corner 
teeth, and the inner edge is worn to the 
gum. 

To Help a Cow in Calving. — Pull down 
and steady on the calf when the cow strains. 
If she has a hard time, grease around with 
lard. 

When you let the calf run with the cow, 
don't feed strong feed, as it makes the 
milk too strong, and it will curd in the 
stomach. It is liable to kill the calf if you 
are not careful. 

Don't give a hand- fed calf curdled milk, 
as it will cause them to bloat, and often 
kill them. 

For Cow That Has Taken Cold. — First 
Dose — Take one tablespoonful of aseofet- 



86 CATTLE 

ida and mix with one-half pint warm water 
and drench. 

Second Dose — One teaspoonful of the 
above in 12 hours, the next morning a 
t&ble spoonful. If cow is billious, give phy- 
sic. Use same physic as you would on 
foundered cow. 

To Vomit a Cow.— Two tablespoonful of 
baking soda, one teacupful of molasses, 
one-half pint of warm water, and drench; 
repeat the dose in two hours if necessary. 
To be used in cases of overeating such as 
apples, corn, or if bloated with clover. 

To Unchoke a Cow.— For a hard sub- 
stance like a nubbin of corn, drench with 
lard. If an apple or potato or anything 
soft, take two square blocks and strike on 
outside of throat and flatten the article, 
when it will either go up or down. 

The Dairy. — I run a dairy for five years. 
When I wanted to turn a cow dry I quit 
milking her. Then on the second day I 
milked her again, then waited three days 
and milked again, and so on. 1 never 
had a cow's udder to cake unless it was 



CATTLE 87 

hurt or stung. Never had a cow to lose 
her teat unless it was caused from a bruise 
or a sting. Leaving the hot milk in the 

bag is what dries up the cow. Sometimes 
the milk will be blue and the cream thin 
on the milk. You should examine your 
cows to see if they have any disease. 
Don't forget to keep the skin loose on the 
back and watch for the wolf in the tail, as 
a fat cow is as apt to have it as a poor one. 
Give your cows a little salt every day as it 
will improve the milk and butter. 




Points for a Good Milk Cow 

Here, boy, look for the curls that curl 
upwards, and the hair on the sack should 
grow upwards instead of downwards, the 
sack should feel greasy. These are symp- 
toms of a good milker. 



SHEEP 



SHEEP 




THE MERINO SHEEP 

The Merino is a healthy sheep and has a 
good heavy fleece. A large number of 
them could be herded together and stand 
more rain and cold without any danger. 
They are a lucky breed to raise lambs. 
Any sheep wants to show a large eye. 



SHEEP 




THE FULLBLOOD SOUTHDOWN SHEEP 

The older the sheep the slimmer the 
neck and straight in the back. A high 
bred sheep don't tuck their tail down as 
much as one that is not high bred. The 
quarters to come out square and straight 
down. The wool low down on the limb. 
Straight in the belly. A full breast. The 
wool to come down under the jaw and be- 
tween the eyes. The more the wool com^s 
down over the face the higher they are 
bred. Don't want bald place between the 
ears. A stylish sheep wants to stand 
squarely on his feet with his head up. The 
redder the limb and the redder the face the 
higher the South Down are bred. The 
blacker the limbs and the blacker the face 
the higher the Shropshire are bred. The 
lower the wool is on the forehead the high- 
er they are bred on the most of breeds. 



SHEEP 



91 




**smm 



THE FULLBLOOD COTSWOLD SHEEP 



On a Cots wold sheep the whiter the 
limb and th* whiter the face the higher 
thev are bred. Some other breeds have the 
same points. The Cotswold is a good 
wool sheep and the lambs bring big money. 
Thev should also show a lar^e ear and a 
large eve. 



92 



SKEEP 




THE COTSWOLD SHEEP 

The Shropshire sheep crossed with the 
Cotswold, the wool longer. The whiter 
the limbs and the whiter the face the more 
they are crossed with the Cotswold. 




THE SHROPSHIRE SHEEP 

The Shropshire are a nicely built sheep 



SHEEP 93 

and weigh heavy. Youcan make this 
cross yourself without paying for the 
pedigree. The blacker the face and the 
blacker the limb the higher the Shropshire 
is bred. 

The Ewe During Pregnancy. — The 
ewes should be well cared for, and those 
expected to drop their lambs early in the 
spring, closely watched. 

As the time approaches for finding lambs, 
the ewe should be separated from the flock 
and placed in comfortable quarters. 

Ewes should be fed well during their 
entire pregnancy, but not kept fat. They 
should also have exercise. 

Weaning Time. — The ewe should have a 

dry, warm place, where she and her newly - 

born lambs can be provided with shelter 

from wet and cold. A shed enclosed so as 

to shut off the wind will answer. If the 

weather is very cold they should be better 

protected, so as to keep warm. 

If the lambs corne later in the season 
and for the general flock about the first of 
May is the best time — less shelter and less 
care generally will be required. The main 



94 SHEEP 

thing at any time is to prevent either the 
ewe or young lamb from becoming chilled. 

The Young Lamb. — After the lamb is 
dropped the ewe will generally lick it dry. 
If, however, she refuses to do this, it 
should be carefully wiped dry. The lamb 
will soon attempt to suckle; if it does not it 
should be assisted. If the ewe refuses to 
own the lamb she should be held while it 
suckles. If this is repeated a few days she 
will generally own it. Another way to 
make a ewe own her lamb is to put some 
paint on the lamb's back, or put linseed oil 
on the ewe's nose. This will change the 
smell. If the lamb is not sufficiently 
strong to reach the teats it should be as- 
sisted once or twice. Any locks of wool 
upon the ewe's udder that may be in the 
way should be clipped. If the ewe refuses 
to own the lamb she may be confined be- 
tween two small hurdles. Two light stakes 
are driven in the ground, close together, to 
confine the ewe's head and keep her from 
butting the lamb. If she is disposed to lie 

down as some obstinate ones will do, a 
light pole is passed through the hurdles, 



SHEEP 95 

resting upon the lower bar, beneath her 
belly. Thus confined during the day, she 
is helpless, and if the lamb is lively, it will 
manage to get its supply of food. She 
should be released at night. One day's 
confinement is often sufficient to bring an 
obstinate ewe to reason. 

A Twin Lamb, or one deprived of its 
dam, that may need to be reared by hand, 
may be easily fed on cow's milk. A fresh 
cow's milk is the best fitted for this pur- 
pose. Ewe's milk is richer in solid matter 
than that of a cow, and the addition of 
a teaspoonful of white, refined sugar to the 
pint of cow's milk, will make it more palat- 
able to the lamb. At first, not more than 
a quarter of a pint of milk should be given 
at once. The milk should be freshly drawn 
from the cow and warmed up to one hun- 
dred degrees before it is fed. 

A convenient method of feeding milk to 
a lamb is to use a small tin can with a long 
spout, such as is used for oil. An air hole 
is punched in the cover or cork and a piece 
of sponge covered with a cloth is tied upon 
the end of the spout. The flow is thus 



96 SHEEP 

made easy and equal, and the lamb sucks 
in a natural manner. A very short time is 
sufficient to familiarize the lamb with 
this kind of foster mother. 

To encourage the flow of milk in the ewe 
and the corresponding growth of the lambs, 
the food of the ewes should be of the best. 
Clover hay, bran, and crushed oats, with 
some pea-meal are the most preferable 
foods, producing a rich milk in abundance. 
The ewes must not be allowed to fall off in 
condition or the lambs will fail. During 
mild weather, sugar beets may be given in 
moderate quantity with advantage, but 
mangels or Swede turnips (rutubagas) 
should be avoided, as too watery and de- 
ficient in nourishment, and productive of 
scours in the lamb. In cold weather roots 
are apt to reduce the temperature of the 
animal too suddenly if given in any but 
small quantities, and consequently de- 
creases the flow of milk. Pea straw is a 

favorite and nutritious for sheep, but it 
will be found to be profitable to give only 
the best at hand to nursing ewes. The 
after growth and condition of lambs depend 
greatly upon the maintenance of a thriftly 



SHEEP 97 

and continuous growth during the first 
three months. 

As soon as the lamb is dropped and the 
ewe has revived and licked it and the lamb 
has once sucked, all danger is passed, ex- 
cept from gross carelessness. 

The ewe will be greatly helped by a drink 
of slightly warm thin oatmeal gruel, well 
salted. The lamb will be benefited by a 
teaspoonful of castor oil, given in new 
milk, if the first evacuations do not pass 
away freely. They are apt to be very 
glutinous and sticky, and, by adhering to 
the wool to close the bowels completely 
unless removed. Warm water should be 
used to soften and remove these accumula- 
tions. The anus and surrounding wool 
should then be smeared with pure castor 
oil. If the lamb is scoured, a teaspoonful 
of a mixture of one pint of peppermint 
water and one ounce of prepared chalk 
should be given every three hours until it 
is relieved. 

If the lamb is intended for early market 
it should be taught to eat while quite young. 
Feeding may begin at about" three w T eeks 



98 SHEEP 

of age. Indian meal or oat meal gruel 
may be given it. The ewe, at the same 
time should be fed bran, oil cake or oat- 
meal. Heating food, like corn, should not 
be given her. The lamb, in a very short 
time, may be giving oats or hay. 

Weaning — Lambs should be weaned 
when about four months old. They may 
be left in the pasture where the y have been 
running with the ewes, and the ewes re- 
moved to some other place and put upon 
dry food to stop the flow of milk. Their 
udders should be watched, and if they be- 
come distended, should be relieved by 
milking. If at all feverish they should be 
bathed in tepid water. 

Age. — The age of a sheep may be as- 
certained by examining the front teeth, 
which are eight in number, and make their 
appearance during the first vear, when 
they are all of small size. The following 
year the two middle teeth are superseded 
by two others of larger size. During the 
third year, two other smaller teeth, one 
on each side, are shed and their places 



SHEEP 99 

filled by large ones. At this time there 
are four large teeth in front flanked by two 
pointed ones. The fourth year, the large 
teeth are six in number and only two 
small teeth remain, one on each side. 
These disappear during the fifth year, 
when all the front teeth are large. Signs 
of wear are generally visible during the 
sixth year, and during the seventh year, 
sometimes even earlier, they begin to fall 
out, and are broken off. 

Miscellaneous. — Sell your sheep, if pos- 
sible to those who consume them; you 
will thus secure better prices. A good 
farmer says that he sells every year, in 
lambs and wool, an average of five dollars 
per head for each of his flock. 

Breeding ewes should be feed judiciously. 

Old sheep do not pay for their keeping. 
A ewe should not bear more than four sets 
of lambs. 

Be gentle with your sheep; they are 

naturally shy, but if treated w 7 ell become 
very affectionate. 

Salting is very necessary to the health 
of sheep. If salt can be placed w 7 here they 



100 SHEEP 

can get it whenever they wish, winter and 
summer, it would be a better plan than to 
give it at regular intervals. 

Exercise is a necessity to the health and 
well being of a sheep. In the summer they 
get it on the pasture. They should have 
it in the winter by having access to dry 
yards. 

Tagging. — Before turning the sheep 
from their winter quarters on pasture in 
the spring, they should be tagged. Tag- 
ging is simply the removel of such wool as 
is likely to get fouled. All the wool around 
the neck and from the roots of the tail 
down the inside of the thigh is cut away. 

Docking. — This is the process of cutting 
off the tails of lambs, and is generally done 
at the same time that castration is per- 
formed. It should always be done in cool 
weather, and when the lamb is three or 
our weeks old. The tail is laid on a block 
and cut off with a chisel, at one blow, with 
a mallet. The stump is left about two 
inches long. To prevent flies, take a hot 
iron and singe the tail. This will stop the 
blood. 



SHEEP 101 

Scab. —Another contagious disease 
caused by a small insect burrowing in the 
skin, producing an intense itching. The 
rubbing or' scratching of the atimal re- 
sults in scab. The wool comes of in patches, 
and the animal pines away. 

Symptoms. — Restlessness, violent rub- 
bing against trees, fences, etc., scratching 
with its feet, biting sores and tearing off 
wool. 

Treatment. — Dip in strong solution of 
tobacco, with a little blue vitriol added; 
isolate affected sheep from flock. 

Another remedy is to separate the sheep. 
Do this first, for it is verv infectious; then 
cut off the wool as far as the skin feels 
hard to the finger. The scab should then 
be thoroughly washed with soapsuds and 
rubbed hard with a shoe brush, so as to 
cleanse and break the scab. Make a strong 
decotion of tobacco; add one-third, by 
measure, of strong lye of wood ashes, and 
as much hog's lard as will be absorbed by 
the lye, and about one-eighth of the whole, 
by measure, of the spirits of turpentine. 
This decotion should be rubbed upon the 



102 SHEEP 

parts affected, and some distance outside 
of it. It should be applied until cured. 
Another remedy is to dip the sheep in an 
infusion of arsenic, in the proportion of 
one-half a pound of arsenic to twelve 
gallons of water. The sheep should pre- 
viously be washed with soap and water, 
and great care should be taken that the in- 
fusion does not enter the mouth or nostrils. 

Garft. — A hot, hard, or caked udder; 
sometimes occurs with young ewes after 
birth of first lambs; and also with ewes of 
any age after weaning their lambs; caused 
by an accumulation of milk in the udder. 

Treatment. — Bathe with quite warm 
water, with a little opium or laudanum 
added, applying several times daily. 

Diarrhea. — Sheep changed from dry 
food to grass frequently have it. Remove 
from pasture and give only dry food for a 
few days. Give a little prepared chalk to 
lambs afflicted. 

Ticks. — Ticks are sometimes very annoy- 
ing to young lambs. 

Dip them in a strong decoction of to- 



SHEEP 103 

bacco. A mixture of one gallon of soft 
soap, six pounds grease, one pint crude 
carbolic acid, all boiled in ten gallons 
water, with nine gallons of cold water 
added, makes a good dip. 

Foot Rot. — A contagious disease of the 
foot where the hoofs unite with the bony 
structure, and in the cleft between the 
hoofs. If not attended to at once, it sup- 
purates and becomes very painfnl to the 
sheep. Finally the hoofs come off and the 
sheep is lost. 

Symptoms.- -The first symptoms appears 
in the usually dry and colorless naked skin 
at the top of the cleft over the heels. It 
becomes a little inflamed, with a chafed 
appearence. The first part attacked be- 
comes sore and ulcerous, extending down 
to the inner walls of the hoof. The ulcer- 
ation gradually penetrates between the 
fleshy sole and the bottom of the hoof. 
The hoof finally comes off. 

Cause. — Supposed to be in an undue 
amount of moisture under the feet, which 
softens the hoof and causes an inflammation 
of the tissues. 



104 SHEEP 

Treatment. — Build a pen and cover the 
bottom with a mixture of clay and salt, 
deep enough to come over the hoof. 

Another remedy is to pare off the dis- 
eased hoof; wash off the putrid matter, 
and apply this mixture: 

Turpentine, two ounces. 

Sulphric acid, two drachms. 

Lard, one pound. 

Tar, one-half pint. 

After a treatment the animal should be 
kept on dry footing. 

As soon as disease appears in a flock, the 
sheep affected should be isolated at once. 

Grubs in the Head.— Caused by small 
bots or grubs, hatched in the nostrils of 

the sheep, from the eggs of the sheep bot- 
fly in the summer. 

Symptoms. — Eyes swell, become weak 
and watery; sheep make violent efforts to 
clear their nostrils; restless, refuse food, 
and frequently raise their hind legs as if in 
great pain. 

Treatment. — Scatter slacked lime about 
their feeding places early in the morning, 



SHEEP 105 

causing sheep to sneeze and expel the 
grubs. 

A Shock to Kill Grubs. — A teaspoonful of 
gun powder put on a shovel and make a 
fuse out of paper, hold it six inches below 
the nose and touch it off. This will numb 
the grubs so the sheep can blow them out. 

Another remedy is, to inject strong salt 
water up the nostrils with a syringe. 

Another remedy is, to bathe the head 
and nose with an equal mixture of turpen- 
tine, and camphor and lard. 

To Break a Dog From Killing Sheep. 
— Tie the dog to a dead sheep so he can- 
not get away. Give him a good whip- 
ping, and if he smells of the sheep whip 
him again. Leave him tied to the sheep 
for some time. This will sometimes break 
a dog. 

To Keep a Sheep From Jumping. — Cut 
one of the hamstrings on each hind leg. 
Cut slow on it till it comes off. 

Another remedy is, to put a strap around 



106 SHEEP 

the neck, take a round stick about three 
feet long, bore a hole about three or four 
inches from the end, take a strap eight or 
ten inches long and tie to the collar. 



HOGS 



HOGS 






POINTS ON ANY FULLBLOODED HOG. 
MALE OR FEMALE 

Wide between the eyes and the eye not 
too low down, wide between the ears, the 
ears thin and the tips of the ears tip in, in 
the place of out. 

A Brood Sow, a little long from the eyes 
down, the back higher behind than in 
front, a low r flank, the chances are then for 
an easier pigger, straight in the belly* the 
nipples well forward, see that there is no 
curl in the hair eight inches from the tail 
up the back on any breed. Thin behind 
the ears and the ears thin. A good bone 
and the ham low down. 






HOGS 



109 




A CROSS BETWEEN THE 0. I. C. AND 
CHESTER WHITE 

If there is a cross with the Chester white 
in the O. I. C. the hair will be fine and thin, 
with a straight ^ace and also a slim tail 
with a curl in it. 

A Male Hog, straight in the back, short 
from the ear to the shoulder, heavy jowl, 
there should be no hollow under the 
shoulder, but the flesh dow down under the 
leg. A little wider in front than behind 
and straight up and down on any breed of 
hogs. The shoulder straight down and not 
too heavy just above the knee for male or 
female for an easy pigger. For a male 
hog the wartier and rougher the privates 
are, and the closer and not too low down, 
also both of a size, the better are the 
chances for more pigs. 



110 



HOGS 




THE FULLBLOOD POLAND CHINA 

White on the end of the tail. Four 
white feet. A white, straight face. Straight 
black hair. See that there is no curl in the 
hair about eight inches from the tail up 
the back. This does not show good breed- 
ing. The smoother the privates the less 
pigs. A heavy jowl and a thin ear. The 
ears tip down an inch and a half from the 
end of the ear and tip in, in the place of 
out. 




THE POLAND CHINA BROOD SOW 

Look for the points on brood sows of 

Look for the points 



nv high bred s 



sows. 



that belong to the breed. 



HOGS 



111 




THE DUROC PIGS 

Some of the Du rocs have a dish face and 
the ears a little too straighXand not enough 
jowl, too fine a bone and too high a flank. 




THE FULLBLOOD O. I. C. 

A long heavy tail with not much of a 
curl in it. Long hair on the end of the 
tail. The more dish face the higher thev 
are bred. Lon£. heavy, white hair. 



112 



HOGS 




THE CHESTER WHITE 

They have a straight face, straight ear 
and a thin ear. The hair on the body not 
so long. A small tail with a curl in it. 




THE BERKSHIRE HOG 

The Berkshire is a black, smooth haired 
The end of the tail is white, four 
white feet, white nose and a dish face. 
The ears stand straight up. The Berkshire 
and Poland China are a good stock of 



hog. 



HOGS 113 

hogs for home or country use. The hams 
and shoulders do not show as much fat as 
some other breed. They show more lean 
meat, this is why they are used for home 
use. 

THE FULLBLOOD ESSEX 

Black curly hair, black tail, a straight 
ear. Four black feet. Black nose and a 
dish face. If there is a cross of the Essex 
with the Poland China some of the pigs 
will have black feet and black noses, and 
also a black tail. 

THE FULLBLOOD McGEE POLAND CHINA 

White feet, white on the end of the tail 
and a straight white face. Black and small 
white spots all over them. White in the 
flank. The feet are white a little higher 
up than the Poland China. 

THE FULLBLOOD JERSEY HOG 

They have a body more like the Poland 
China, with a long, heavy tail and not 
much of a curl. The hair yellow on the 
feet, nose and top of the ear. The hair on 
the body is of fair length and yellow. If 



114 HOGS 

the skin is dark on the back it is crossed 
with some black breed. They have a thin 
straight ear and tip in instead of out. A 
straight face and a heavy jowl. The Jer- 
sey are bred from the Poland China. 

For yourself, select whatever breed suits 
you best. Keep it pure, and select the 
best specimen and inprove it within itself. 

After being bred, the sow should be lib- 
erally fed and in summer kept on clover or 
blue grass pasture. Young sows can hard- 
ly be made to fatten while carrying their 
first litter. They seldom overlay their first 
litter, being more careful and attentive 
than with subsequent litters. 

During the winter season, when there is 
no green food or vegetation for animals, 
pregnant sows should not be confined to 
grain alone (oats are preferable to corn) 
nor kept in a small lot, but should be fed 
on turnips, beets, potatoes, or better still 
artichokes. 

When a sow has pigs, always allow her 
to eat the cleanings, and do not feed her 
until she comes out of the nest. 



HOGS 115 

Hog Cholera. — A good recipe for hog 
cholera is as follows: 

Phosphate lime, 8 oz. 

Common chalk powder, 6 oz. 

Carbonate magnesia, 2 oz. 

Capsicum powder, \ oz. 

Mix well together. Give as a preventive 
one or two teaspoonfuls in feed every day. 
As a cure, give one teaspoonful three times 
a day. 

A good preventive of disease is to put 
pokeroot in the slop, and put carbolic acid 
around the trough. 

Another good preventive for cholera is 
to take equal parts of coal oil, turpentine 
and sulphur, mix together, give one table- 
spoonful in slop once a day, for a hog that 
will weigh 150 pounds. 

Keep the worms out of the hog and keep 
his blood pure and they will not be so like- 
ly to have disease. 

When castrating pigs, if it should swell, 
do not cut it with a knife, but let it break 
itself. 

Put salt in it to keep it running, and it 
will heal from the inside. 






116 HOGS 

To help a sow when pigging, take a long 
shoe buttoner and hook in the pig's jaw 
and draw it out gently. 

To make pigs strong and healthy, feed a 
sow coarse wheat bran made into a slop; 
feed the same as other slop for two weeks 
before and three or four days after pigging, 
then you may commeuce giving stronger 
slop. 

If you want to get lengthy pigs, breed a 
sow to a lengthy male hog. 

Alw r ays pick a sow high in the hams or 
back. She will not be so apt to drop her 
pigs before the time is up. 

To Prevent a Hog From Catching Chickens. 
— Take a piece of No.n wire about one 
foot long; take an awl and make a hole in 
the nose, put the wire through the hole and 
twist it so it will come down over the nose, 
and spread the ends of the wire about one 
inch apart. When the hog grabs at the 
chicken the wire will strike it before he can 
get to it. 



HOGS 117 

Cholera. — The term cholera is employed 
to designate a disease which has been very 
fatal among swine in different parts of the 
United States, and for the reason that its 
symptoms, as well as the indications 
accompanying its termination, are nearly 
allied to what is manifested, in the disease 
of that name which visits man. 

Epidemic cholera has for several years 
past committed fearful ravages among 
swine of, particularly, Ohio, Indiana and 
Kentucky. Indeed, many farmers who, 
until recently, have been accustomed to 
raise large numbers of the animals, are, in 
a great measure, disinclined to invest again 
in such stock on account of the severe 
losses, in some instances, to the extent of 
the entire drove upon particular places. 

Various remedies have, of course, been 
prescribed, but the most have failed in 
nearly every case where the disease has se- 
cured a firm foothold. 

Preventives are therefore the most that 
can be expected, and in this direction 
something must be done. 

Although some peculiar change in the 
atmosphere is probably an infalliable cause 



118 HOGS 

of cholera, its ravages may be somewhat 
stayed by removing other predisposing as- 
sociate causes. 

Granting that the hog is a filthy animal 
and fond of rooting among filth, it is by no 
means necessary to persist, for that rea- 
son, in surrounding him with all the nasti- 
ness possible, for even a hog, when penned 
up in a filthy place in company with a large 
number of other hogs, particularly when 
that place is improperly ventilated, is not 
as healthy as when the animals are kept 
together in smaller numbers in a clean and 
well ventilated barn or pen. 

Look for a moment at a drove of hogs 
coming along the street, the animals all fat 
and ready for. the knife. They have been 
driven several miles and are scarcely able 
to crawl along, many of them having to be 
carried on drays, while others have died on 
the road. At last they are driven into a 
pen, perhaps several inches deep with the 
manure and filth deposited there by hun- 
dreds of predecessors. Every hole in the 
ground has become a puddle and in such a 



HOGS 119 

place some one hundred or two hundred 
animals are piled together exhausted from 
the drive which they have had. They lie 
down in the rnud and in a short time one 
can see the steam beginning to rise from 
their bodies in volumes, increasing their 
already prostrate condition by the conse- 
quent inhalation of the noxious gas thus 
thrown off from the system. The blood 
becomes impregnated with poison. The 
various functions of the body are thereby 
imported and disease will inevitably be de- 
veloped in one form or another. Should the 
disease known as hog cholera prevail in 
the neighborhood, the chances are greatly 
in favor of their being attacked by it and 
consequently perishing. 

Symptoms. — The symptoms of cholera 
are as follows: The animal appears to be 
instantaneously deprived of energy, loss of 
appetite, lying down by himself, occasion- 
ally moving about slowly, as though ex- 
periencing some slight uneasiness inter- 
lally. The eves have a very dull and 
sunken appearance, which increases with 
the disease; the evacuations are almost con- 



120 HOGS 

tinuous, of a dark color, having a fetid 
odor and containing a large quantity of 
bile; the extremities are cold and soreness 
is evinced when the abdomen is pressed; 
the pulse is quickened and sometimes 
hardly perceptible, while the buccol mem- 
brane that belong the cheek presents a 
slight purple hue, the tongue has a furred 
appearance, the evacuations continue fluid 
until the animal expires, which may be in 
twelve hours from the first attack, or the 
disease may run on for several days. 

In .a very short time after death the ab- 
domen becomes of a dark purple color and 
upon examination is found to contain but 
a little fluid, the intestines are almost en- 
tirely empty, retaining a slight quantity of 
the colored matter before mentioned. The 
mucous membrane of the alimentary canal 
exhibits considerable inflammation, which 
sometimes appears only in patches, while 
the other parts are filled with dark venous 
blood indicating a breaking up of the 
capillary vessels in such places. 

Treatment. — As a preventative the fol- 
lowing will be found valuable: 



HOGS 121 

Flour of sulphur, 6 lbs. 
Animal charcoal, i lb. 
Sulphate of iron, 6 oz. 
Cinchona, pulverized, i lb. 

Mix well together in a large mortar, 
afterwards give a tablespoonful to each 
animal, mixed with a few potato peelings 
and corn meal, three times a days Con- 
tinue this for one week, keeping the animal 
at the same time in a clean, dry place and 
not allowing many together. 

The best preventative for cholera is to 
keep plenty of gympson stalks growing in 
the hog lot. This will keep the hogs 
healthy. 

Bedding Hogs. — The best bedding for 
hogs is corn fodder. Just throw it in the 
pen and they will pick it to pieces and 
make a bed of it better than you could do 
yourself. The Chester White hogs have a 
very fine, thin coat of hair, and if you 
have many of them together and have not 
got a good bed for them they are apt to 
scald and the hair will drop off. Give 
them a bed of fodder, as it will keep the 



122 HOGS 

mange off of them and prevent them 
from scalding much better than a bed of 
straw or anything of that kind. 

Crossing Hogs. — The Poland-China hogs 
crossed with the Jersey make a good cross, 
as the pigs will be of good size and hearty. 

The Poland-China and the Berkshire 
make a good cross. The pure breed of 
Berkshire is more wild than the other 
breeds, and by crossing them with the Po- 
land-China it makes a tamer hog. 

Physic Hogs. — As soon as your hogs are 
complaining and lying around not eating 
good you should give them a good physic. 
The following is good for a hog weighing 
one hundred and fifty pouuds: Give one- 
fourth of a tablespoonful of powdered 
aloes; dissolve in water and put in the 
slop. If the first dose is not enough, re- 
peat. This is as good a mild and as quick 
a physic as you can get for any kind of 
stock. If you should happen to give too 
large a physic, give flour and water to 
check it. 

A good remedy for worms and the blood 
is to give equal parts of turpentine, coal 



HOGS 123 

oil, and sulphur stirred in the slop. Give 
a tablespoonful once a day. 

Lice. — A good thing to kill lice on hogs 
is, coal oil two parts, lard one part; mix 
and rub on the hogs. The coal oil will kill 
the lice, and the lard will keep it from tak- 
ing the hair off. 

Lameness in Hogs. — There is small holes 
or pores in the front leg, just above the 
knee, that sometimes get stopped up and 
make a hog lame. The places should be 
opened. They are hard to find, but if you 
take soap suds and wash them good, rub- 
bing hard with a corncob or something of 
the kind, it will open them up and they 
will get better. 

Feeding Pigs. — After weaning pigs do 
not give sweet milk alone as it will make 
them costive and in straining the rectum 
will sometimes turn out if it does the only 
remedy is to cut it off and feed some soft 
loose feed, when you are feeding milk you 
should feed corn soaked in water with it. 






Salting Hogs. — Do not throw salt in the 
pen but give it to them in the slop. 



124 HOGS 

Treatment and Care of the Sow. — After 
being bred the sow should be liberally fed 
and in summer kept on good clover or 
blue grass pasture. Young sows can hard- 
ly be made to fatten while carrying their 
first litter. They seldom overlay their 
pigs of their first litter being more careful 
and attentive than with subsequent lit- 
ters. During the winter season when 
there is no green food pregnant sows 
should not be confined to feed on grain alone 
oats are preferable to corn, not kept in a 
small lot but should be fed at least once a 
day on turnips, beets, potatoes or arti- 
chokes if they can be had, if not, feed once 
a day shorts mixed into a slop, give them a 
large lot to run in so they will have ample 
room for exercise. If sheds are made for 
shelter put in partitions every six feet so 
as to prevent too many from sleeping to- 
gether and piling up and over-laymg each 
other, the sheds should be made with the 
common shed roof the highest side facing 
to the south and the south side made with 
doors so that on bright days they can be 
opened to air, dry and purify the bedding 



HOGS 125 

which greatly promotes the health of the 
swine. In the spring when your sows far- 
row, each one of these divisions can be 
used for a feeding pen and when used for 
that purpose you should put a slat around 
the bottom on the inside about 8 inches 
from the bottom and six inches from the 
sides so that when the sow lays down close 
to either side instead of catching a pig be- 
tween her and the side of the pen it gives 
the pig a chance to get away, otherwise it 
would be certain death. Sows usually 
carry their young one hundred and twelve 
days, sometimes overrun a day or two but 
seldom fall short of that number. A week 
or ten days before farrowing the sow 
should be separated from the rest of the 
herd and put in a lot or pen by herself, 
supply her with good warm shelter and 
dry clean bedding, corn husks make the 
best bed. At farrowing if in cold or 
chilly weather the pigs should be wiped dry 
with a woolen cloth as soon as born, then 
placed in a warm box until the sow is 
through when the pigs should be placed at 
the teats of the sow. But in all cases the 



126 HOGS 

sow should be watched at farrowing as she 
frequently needs assistance and almost al- 
ways attention. It is possible that four- 
fifths of the pigs that are overlaid and 
killed by the sow are killed by her during 
the struggles and agonies of labor. Do not 
disturb the sow so as to make her rise un- 
til all is over and not then if it can be 
avoided and let her remain quiet for at 
least six hours giving her only water to 
drink and not much feed for six hours, nor 
should she have more than half feed the 
day before farrowing. The second day 
give her a thin slop, the third day slop and 
an ear of corn three times a day, the fourth 
day double the feed after that increase her 
feed until the seventh day when she should 
have all she can eat. 

If the pigs get the scours feed only dry 
corn for a few days. If this does not stop 
them, give sweet skimmed milk thickened 
with flour or milk alone with corn or shorts 
and sulphur. As soon as you can after 
farrowing remove the wet part of the bed- 
ding and sprinkle a little pulverized cop- 
peras in the bed to disinfect and purify it 



HOGS 127 

from the disagreeable oder arising after 
farrowing. Sows, after the first litter, do 
better to be kept in good, thrifty condi- 
tion, say half fattened. When in farrow 
in this condition they are more careful than 
when very fat and not so apt to overlay 
their young. During the sucking season 
the sow should be fed as much as she will 
eat and have the run of a grass field 
if possible. Sows will generally take the 
boar within three days after farrowing and 
sometimes get with pigs, but after that 
period they rarely come in heat until three 
or four days after "the pigs are weaned. 
As a rule it is better to breed your sows 
but twice a year, and regulate it so that 
the pigs will rjome the last of February or 
the first of March and from the middle of 
September to the middle of October. June, 
July, August, November, December and 
January pigs are generally unprofitable, 
extreme warm or cold weather being alike 
unfavorable for success. Sows may be 
safely bred w r hen they are eight months of 
age without detriment if generously fed, 



128 HOGS 

But one litter the first season is recom- 
mended. After they are in their second 
year they may be safely bred twice a year. 
Such a course, in fact, is deemed desirable, 
as they are much less liable to become 
sterile than when allowed to run without 
breeding. Some persons object to breed- 
ing their sows until they are one year old. 
But a breed of hogs that does not have 
sufficient size and vitality to breed at eight 
months cannot be regarded as having the 
profitable quality of early maturity. 

How, When and What to Feed Your Pigs. 
— As soon as the pigs begin to eat, pro- 
vide a small trough in a part of the pen 
or lot where the sow cannot get to it. In- 
to this pour a half pint or a pint of sweet 
milk weakeued with water, gradually in- 
creasing the quantity as they grow older. 
Let them drink what they will of it, but 
always clean it out before feeding again. 
When two or three weeks old, give them, 
a quiet place by themselves a little 
soaked corn. Soak the corn in cold water 
about twenty-four hours before using. 
Oats prepared in the same way are still 



HOGS 129 

better or growth arid vigorous develop- 
ment, but do not fatten a pig so rapidly on 
corn. It will be better to use a mixture of 
both, whole or ground together, or if you 
prefer it, cook the feed instead of soaking 
in cold water. The soaking you will find 
much less troublesome and equally profit- 
able. 

To Keep Brood Sows Over Winter. — 
Give them plenty of corn fodder for bed- 
ding, and they will not lose a hair. 

To Stop a Hog From Eating Chickens. — 
Take two wires, each one foot long, and 
take a knife and cut a hole through the 
nose, where you put in rings, one on each 
side of nose. Stick the wire through, giv- 
ing one or two twists; tie them together 
close to the nose with wire so they can't 
come apart, bend wire down right over the 
mouth, then, when they make the vilive af- 
ter the chicken, the wire is between them 
and the chicken. 

Breachy Hog. — Take a w r ire twelve 
inches long, put it through the center of 
the nose let it hang down over the mouth, 



130 HOGS 

turning the end up so it will catch on rails 
or boards. 

Physic for Cows. — Milk Fever. — One to 
two pounds of Epsom salts in a gallon of 
water, with a spoonful of ginger. Turn 
the cow over her feet once or twice a day. 
Don't turn over the back. 

Give the cow about a tablespoonful of 
gun powder in a nubbin of corn to make 
her clean herself after calving. 

Another Remedy — A piece of pickled 
pork about two inches wide and four inches 
long. 

Also a dog button pulverized fine and 
mixed with about a tinful of bran. 

Thumps — In pigs is caused by the pigs 
not having enough exercise and two much 
dust in the pen. 

Remedy. -One teaspoonful of gun camphor 
to three tablespoonfulls of water or whis- 
key and one tablesboonful of hot lard. 
Stir well, and take breath and put in nose 
and mouth. 



POULTRY 



POULTRY 

FOR HIGH BRED CHICKENS OF ANY BREED 

Straight up behind and also straight in 
front. Head and tail close together. Hen 
a little longer in the back than a crower. 
A good sized limb for any breed of chickens 
and a long toe, also a fat heel so that they 
will stand up squarely and show their style. 
For a laying hen, they are wide across the 
thigh and tapering forward. When they 
are the same width behind as in front, they 
are the ones to sell. 

For half grown pullets the w T ider they 
are behind and the more they taper forward 
the better layers they are when they are 
old enough. High and rounding at the top 
of the head on any breed of chickens, and 
see that they are not too low on top of the 
head. Another point for a laying hen is 
when the bone where the egg passes 
through is closed, they are not laying and 
when it is opening up they are getting 
ready to lay and when it is open they are 
laving. This can be told by examining 
the hen. 



POULTRY 



135 




THE BARRED PLYMOUTH ROCK 

A yellow bill, a yellow limb and a limb 
with a heavy bone. A low fetlock. The 
bars should be barred clear to the skin all 
over. If the feathers are white an inch 
from the skin they are not fullblood. See 
that there are no cotton feathers at the top 
of the limb and under the wing They 
must have a long toe and a fat heel. 



136 



POULTRY 



&&&* 




THE WHITE PLYMOUTH ROCK 

They s hould be pure white all over. 
Look for colored feathers in the wings and 
tail. 



POULTRY 



137 




THE FULLBLOOD BRAHMAS 

Look for the same style and some of the 
same points on the Brahma as on any 
other breed. Black and white feathers 
on the neck down to the wing. xA little 
black under the wing. A low fetlock. A 
heav\ limb and well, feathered, A yellow 
bill. " 



138 



POULTRY 




THE FULLBLOOD BUFF COCHIN 



Are yellow all over. A heavy limb and 
well feathered. Look for the same style as 
in other fullblooded chickens. Be careful 
not to get too many black feathers in the 
tail for fullbloocL 



POULTRY 



13^ 




THE LANGSHANG 

They are a black chicken, the bill is not 
so yellow, long red gills, a heavy comb, 
black down to the wing and on down to 
the limbs, with blue black wings and long 
black feathers in the tail, a low fetlock 
and a large foot. Also extra heavy limb 
and heavy feathered. 



140 



POULTRY 




THE PARTRIDGE COCHIN 

They are a dark chicken which shows 
yellow at the neck and black specks over 
them, with a yellow bill, heavy gills and 
heavy comb, a large foot, low T fetlock and 
an extra heavy limb and also heavy feath- 
ers. When picking a Partridge Cochin 
crower be careful and not pick him too red 
and look for the points. 



POULTRY 



141 




'zsvlfa**- r =S? 



THE BROWN LEGHORN 



They have a yellow bill, five points on 
the comb., a white ear, a brown color to 
the wing and also down to the limb below 
the wing, with a blue black wing and the 
tail feathers blacky a low fetlock, heavy 
yellow limb, a long toe and a fat heel. 



142 



POULTRY 




*^&*> 



THE FULLBLOODED RHODE ISLAND REDS 



A yellow bill and a yellow limb. Red 
down the neck to the thighs. Red wings, 
and some black feathers in the tail, also a 
few black feathers under the wing. Look 
for the same style as in other full blooded 
chickens. 



POULTRY 



143 




THE FULLBLOODED BUFF ORPINGTON 

A blue bill and a blue limb. Top of 
toes are blue and the bottom of the feet is 
blue for a fullblood. If the bottom of the 
foot is yellow they are not fullblood. They 
are crossed with the Minorca. Some have 
a single and some a double comb. 



144 



POULTRY 




THE BLACK MINORCA 

They have a blue bill and a long red 
gill, a white ear and are black from the 
neck down to the wings and under the 
wings to the thighs with a blue black, 
shining wing and long black tail feathers. 



POULTRY 



145 




THE BUFF ROCK 



They are yellow. No black feathers in 
the wings but a few on the tip of the tail. 
The points on the limbs, toes and bill are 
the same on the three breeds. 



148 



POULTRY 




THE WHITE WYANDOTTE 



They have a yellow bill, long red gills 
and a split comb which lays both ways, 
also a heavy yellow limb and long toes, 
a fat heel and low fetlock. Always look 
for brown feathers in the wing and tail. 



POULTRY 



147 




THE FULLBLOOD BRONZE TURKEY 



Lots of red on top of the head. The 
gills long and red. Black down in front 
under the wings clear to the limb. A blue 
bill and heavy blue limb. Long toes and 
fat heel. Blue black wings. Small white 
bars in the tail. 



148 



POULTRY 




THE FULLBLOOD WHITE TURKEY 

A yellow bill. The top of the head and 
the gills a pale red. The limb is yellow. 
The feathers are all white. When there 
are black spots on the white turkey they 
are crossed with another breed of turkey. 
It can be told in the wing. 



POULTRY 149 

Breeding.— It is taken for granted that, 
whether the object is simply to raise a few 
fowls for home use or to embark in poul- 
try raising as a business, the advantage of 
thoroughbred fowls over dung-hill varie- 
ties are manifest. 

The scrubs will eat as much as the im- 
proved breeds. The latter are, in general, 
much heavier, finer and hardier; they lay 
more and richer and larger eggs; they 
come to maturity sooner, are far more 
quiet about the place, and both the eggs 
and dressed poultry bring more in discrim- 
inating markets. There is a large and con- 
stantly growing profit in selling pure bred 
fowls and eggs for breeding; and finally, 
they are a satisfaction and not an eye-sore 
to have in sight. 

Since the breeding of poultry involves 
exactly the same general principles that 
underlie the successful breeding of all 
stock, nothing could better teach the farm- 
er's boys, when older, how 7 to manage 
cattle and horses. It will keep them in 
pocket money and out of bad company. 

What breeds to keep depends on where 



150 POULTRY 

they are kept, and for what purpose. 
Look over the breeds, make your choice 
and send for a pair or two to some breeder. 
It pays to get the best. As a rule, the 
best results are produced by mating so as 
to balance the defects on one side with 
all serious defects in either. 

To secure uniform type and color in 
breeding, select the cock for his beauty or 
shape and color, and the hen for her egg 
productiveness, constitution and vital force. 

Do not breed from cocks with less than 
seven-eights of the blood of the strain, or 
from hens with less than three-fourths. 
With Asiatics, give one cock to nine to 
thirteen hens. With smaller breeds, twelve 
to forty. 

Cure weak legs and all other constitu- 
tional defects with hatchet. 

Cross bred fowls are generally much 
more prolific as egg producers than either 
scrubs or thoroughbreds. 

The most usual practice is to improve 
common stock with pure blood, but care 
should be taken not to breed from the 
cross. 



POULTRY 151 

Feeding and Care.- — If only a few fowls 
are kept, and those in the country, where 
they can forage for themselves, the scraps 
from the table will generally furnish about 
the right amount in variety and quality of 
food. 

Where large flocks are kept in yards, 
and during cold weather, more feed is 
needed. In summer feed scalded corn 
meal and bran for breakfast, and any kind 
of grain ?t night. In winter boil meat 
scraps, potatoes, turnips, etc., together 
and feed warm. 

Corn fattens, but is not best for laying 
hens, wheat and buckwheat being better. 
Fowls must have plenty of gravel or old 
mortar and some kind of green food — 
grass, lettuce, etc., the year around. In 
winter chopped cabbage and second growth 
clover must take the place of grass. Give 
them plenty of pure water and keep the 
drinking vessels clean. 

Do not over-feed or allow feed to lie 
about, and always scatter the food on the 
'round or on the floor, never lumping it 
in trough or pan. 



152 POULTRY 

Chicks should in particular be kept 
hungry and lively. If too fat they neither 
lay well nor are the eggs liable to hatch. 

Do not place too many chicks together 
in cold weather, for they get too warm and 
take cold and die. 

Hens for Laying. — They should be kept 
in droves of not more than twenty or 
thirty of the larger breed, and forty or fifty 
of the smaller. They lay as well without 
a cock, and the eggs keep longer. 

The proper conditions for the manufac- 
ture of the eggs are warm, dry and clean 
quarters, air and exercise, and plenty of 
good stimulating food, furnished by nature 
in summer; if artificially provided in winter 
will unfailingly produce the same result. 

Todd's Tonic Food is an excellent prepa- 
ration for keeping the hen in order and 
stimulating her to lay herself out. Pulver- 
ized cayenne pepper mixed with the food 
every other day, one teaspoonful to each 
twelve fowls, is good also as an egg stimu- 
lator. 

Feeding Chicks. — Tor the first week or 
ten davs feed the chicks stale bread soaked 



POULTRY 153 

in scalded milk, and occasionally boiled 
chopped eggs, millet or canary seed. 

Follow this with scalded corn meal, mixed 
with cracked corn or wheat, grass if it can 
be had, or chopped lettuce or cabbage, an 
occasional meal of meat or boiled fresh 
fish. Give plenty of pure water in clean 
dishes several times a day. 

Feed Asiatics all they will eat. 

Keep chicks dry or out of wet grass. 
Avoid huddling. Twelve or fifteen are 
enough for one coop. 

Do not take the hen away till she w r eans 
the chicks herself. 

Disease and Treatment. —Prevention of 
the disease is easier than the cure. Sick- 
ness, in ninety-nine cases out of one hun- 
dred, is caused by dirty, lousy quarters 
and poor ventilation, bad water and food, 
and too close confinement. 

The best remedy in cholera, roup, chick - 

n-pox and diphtheria is to instantly kill 

and bury the affected fowl, and attend to 

the sanitary condition of the remainder. 

Coal oil, mixed with corn or soft food, 



154 POULTRY 

and fed to fowls once or twice a week is a 
good preventive of disease. 

Lice and the dreadful red spider are 
deadly pests of the chicken house. They 
may be killed or driven out by pouring 
spirits of turpentine or coal oil on the 
roosts and in cracks and crevices. 

Do not put either on the bodies of fowls, 
but dust carbonate of lime or snuff among 
their feathers. 

Moth balls placed in hen's nests and 
coops are good to drive away lice. 

Onion peelings placed in nests are good 
to drive away lice. 

Scurvy Legs — Should be rubbed with a 
mixture of sulphur and lard. 

Bumble Foot — A bruised and puspuffed 
condition of the foot, resulting in lameness. 

Caused by heavy fowls jumping and fly- 
ing from roosts npon gravel, stones, etc. 

Treatment — If discovered before the pus 
congeals, lance the swelling at the front 

and rear of the foot and pi ess out the pus 
and inject a solution of carbolic acid and 
water. When the pus has congealed, use 
a strong liniment and let the inflammation 
settle down into a corner. 



POULTRY 155 

Cholera. — A contagious and very fatal 
disease of the bowels, death usually result- 
ing in twelve to thirty-six hours. 

Symptoms. — Sudden and violent thirst, 
severe purging, the droppings being at 
first greenish, afterwards thin and whitish, 
the fowl becoming extremely weak, stag- 
gering and falling with indications of 
cramp. 

Caused by filth, confinement, over-crowd- 
ing, impure water and food, or exclusive 
corn diet. 

Treatment. — Remove the fowls and puri- 
fy the roosts, houses and nests with hot 
whitewash, with a little carbolic acid add- 
ed. Clean up the droppings and sprinkle 
the floors with fresh dug earth and slacked 
lime every day. 

Use all the sanitary precautions previ- 
ously recommended, plenty of fresh water 
and access to burned bones, shells and 
charcoal. Feed twice a day, soft feed in 
the morning, dry grain at night. Let the 
evening feed be corn soaked in carbon oil 
three to five times a week. Salt the feed 
occasionally, and put alum in the water. 



156 POULTRY 

Strong smartweed tea for drink and soft 
food is also recommended. 

Canker and Diphtheria. — An obstinate 
contagious disease, affecting the mouth, 
throat, nostrils and eyes. Somewhat anal- 
agous to croup. 

Symptoms. — Face and throat are very 
red and inflamed; the latter becomes coat- 
ed with a yellowish leathery lining, which, 
on being removed, leaves the surface a 
whitish red, thickly studded with raw 

spots. 

Ulcers form in the mouth, nostrils and 
eyes; diarrhea, with greenish discharge; 

extreme exhaustion. 

Caused by taking cold, damp quarters, 
etc. 

Treatment. — Wash and steam the head 
with hot water, to which a dash of carbol 
ic acid has been added; sponge out the 
throat with carbolic water and gargle with 
a strong solution of potash. 

Give three grains of hyposulphite of 
soda, in milk, in the morning and three 
grains of quinine in the evening. 



POULTRY 157 

Feed on brandy and raw eggs, or bread 
soaked in whiskey or ale. Remove to dry, 
warm quarters. 

Diarrhea. — A morbidly frequent evacu- 
ation of the intestines, the scourge of 
young chicks in early spring. 

Caused by improper food and lack of 
corn. 

Treatment. — Give chicks nothing to eat 
but scalded milk and cook all feed. 

For older fowls, a tablespoonful of cas- 
tor oil and ten drops of laudanum are effec- 
tual. 

Feed bread soaked in scorched milk and 
black pepper, and supply plenty of burned 
bones and charcoal. 

Gapes. — Worms in the throats of chicks. 

Symptoms. — Gaping and stretching out 

the neck, accompanied by lassitude. 

Caused by impure and stagnant water. 

Treatment. — Keep camphor constantly in 
drinking water. Cover the bottom of 

the coop with lime. 

Take a hen's tail feather, strip it* to 



158 POULTRY 

within an inch of the end, wet the tip with 

a solution of drops of carbolic acid and 

one ounce of glycerine, run the feather 
down the windpipe.twist it sharply around 
two or three times and draw quickly out. 
Turpentine may be used in the same way. 
The worms will adhere to the feather; use 
a new feather. 

Another remedy is to put the chicks in a 
covered box and bore a few holes in the 
bottom and place over a box with sulphur 
and set fire to the sulphur and smoke the 
chicks for a short time. 

Roup — Chronic catarrh, resulting in con- 
sumption; highly infectious. 

Symptoms. — The skin hanging from the 
lower beak is inflated and emptied at every 
breath; watery, frothy and offensive dis- 
charge from eyes and nostrils; a congealed 
yellow coating to the mouth and tongue. 

Cause. — Exposure to cold and dampness, 
housing in foul, ill-ventilated and tainted 
quarters, gorging after a fast. 

Treatment. — Remove the affected fowls, 
disinfect and fumigate the quarters, and 
give the remaining ones a tablespoonful of 



POULTRY 159 

flour of sulphur to every fifteen fowls 
every day for a week, feeding eight drops 
of tincture of iron in soft food to each hen 
every other day. 

Wash and steam the heads of sick ones 
with hot water containing a dash of car- 
bolic acid. 

Clear the nasal passage with carbolic 
acid and water and gargle the throat and 
mouth with a solution of potash, but do 
not remove the canker. Repeat this daily, 
and give each morning a gill of milk in 
which three grains of hyposulphite of soda 
have been dissolved, and each evening a 
gill of milk with eight drops of tincture of 
iron. The milk may be poured down the 
fowl's throat by taking hold of the under 
beak and drawing the neck upward until 
straight. When the fowls begin to im- 
prove, give nourishing food, with occa- 
sional doses of sulphur. 

Another Remedy for Gapes.— Take cam- 
phor gum about the size of a pea, melt 
with teaspoonful of lard, take a broom - 
straw and drop in the throat. 



160 



POULTRY 



To Kill Lice. — Take strong salt water, 
boiling hot, and sprinkle about the coop 
and where the chickens run. 

To Keep Chickens Healthy.— Use the horse, 
cattle and chicken powder as the directions 
say. 







JACK 



JACK 




WHAT TO LOOK FOR IN A BREEDING JACK 

A long ear. He^vy close to the head. 
Not too narrow between the ears. Wide 
between the eyes. Wide on down below 
the eyes. Broad across the nostrils and 
not too narrow in the mouth. A wide 



164 JACK 

bone in front and behind. A good heavy 
front knee and not too near cut off below 
the knee. Wide across the withers/ Long 
in the back. Wide in the kidneys. Not 
too steep in the rump. Heavy bone in the 
tail. Low flank. Wide in the stifle. Fair 
length from the girth back. Wide from 
the stifle to the knee and a broad knee. A 
flat limb. Not too much flesh in front of 
the pastern joints. Stand squarely on his 
limbs and not too far apart. 

A Sure Jack. — The closer the privates 
are to the sheath and the nearer one size, 
the surer they are. When one private is 
so much larger than the other, there is 
where the weak colts come from. The 
farther back the privates and the lower 
they hang, the less sure. When both pri- 
vates are large, this is a good point for a 
slow Jack. 

A Slow Jack in Covering. — Make the 
platform in the stall and when you have 
the mare in her place and by the time you 
have everything ready he will be ready. If 
you want him to have a little more snap 
take a handful of flour and put in a pan 



JACK 165 

jaw. Not too small in the throatlatch. A 
good wide shoulder. Wide between the 
shoulders. Not too wide between the 
front limbs. A fair sized foot. Heavy 
and put water in, and stir so that it is a 
little thin. This will not hurt him, it will 
do him £ood. The larger the wart is 
above the knee the more power it shows in 
a strong breeder. 

IN BREEDING JENNIES 

Try them with a Jack early every morn- 
ing, and breed the first time they come in 
for a Jack Pick the Jenny as the Jack in 
the makeup. 

WHEN BUYING MULES 

Buy them under the same points as the 
Jack outside the sureness in the breeding 
points. The larger the wart above the 
knee, the more power the mule has, and 
the wart small above the knee, the chances 
are, they are handy on their feet. 



166 HORSE 




THE HACKNEY 

This is a good coach horse, average size 
plenty of vim; very healthy. This horse 
has very straight hind legs and is generally 
black or brown in color; well made; carry 
their heads well up and are smooth travel- 
ers. Breed them with the German Coach 
for good knee action. 

Points For A Sure Stallion. — The 
surer he is the closer the privates to the 
sheath and the nearer one size. One pri- 
vate larger than the other is a point for 
weak colts. The farther back and the 
lower the privates is a point for an un- 



HORSE 167 

sure horse. Watch these points closely, for 
a draft horse is not as sure as a light horse. 
Look for the draft points on stallions or 
colts. A heavy wart at the fetlock and 
the larger around the wart above the knee; 
that bone directly below the ear heavy, a 
heavy bone between the ears. The heavier 
these points are the more draft on horses 
or colts. These points are for sure breed- 
ing on draft and trotting horses, also Shet- 
land ponies, for all stallions. 

In Buying or Trading a Horse, Don't be 
Too Quick. — Trade slow and watch close 
to see all the blemishes. Watch for heaves, 
and wind-suckers, and air-suckers; look 
for lumps about the neck, or about the 
head or the whiskers; feel along the neck 
and under the mane for lumps, and to see 
whether he has been bled. 

Those little lumps that yellow water 
comes out of is caused from overheating. 
The first start of it is button farcy. 

Stringy. — A horse raises his hind feet. 

Springy. — A horse raises his front feet 



168 HORSE 

and hind feet. He can't stand still. The 
leaders tremble from weakness. 

Another Measure for a Horse. — From the 
point of the hip bone to the point of the 
breast bone should measure the same as 
from the stifle to the front of the withers, 
also from the stifle to the breast bone 
should measure the same as from the 
coupling to the hock. In other words they 
should all measure alike if a horse holds 
out its measure. If the measure from the 
coupling to the hock and also longer from 
the stifle to the breast bone this shows 
speed. 

How to Find the Height of a Colt or Old 
Horse. — Four times the length from the 
center of the knee to the top of the hoof 
will give the height of a colt or old horse. 

To Measure a Horse. — Take a string and 
measure from the shoulder bone to the top 
part of the hip and take half the length of 
the string and start from the center of the 
line and measure to the center of the belly. 
On a fat two-vear-old colt this measure 



HORSE 169 

will hold out when he is a horse if he is 
fat. 

How to Measure a Horse From Two Years 
Old or Older. — Four times the length from 
the middle of the front knee to the top of 
the hoof is the height of any horse when it 
has its growth. 

How To Measure a Horse's Head; Whether 
It is Well Proportioned. For Instance Too 
Long or Too Short. — It should be the same 
measurement from the top of the neck to 
the throttle as from the top of the mouth 
to throttle, also from the throttle to the 
lower part of the eye in front, and from 
the throttle to the bottom part of the ear 
in front. 

How to Measure a Horse that will Hold out 
His Measurements. — When they have the 
same measurement from the point of the 
hip bone to the point of the breast bone as 
from the front part of the withers to the 
stifle, also from the stifle to the point of 
the breast bone as from the coupling to 
the hock. When a horse is longer from 
the stifle to the point of the breast bone it 



170 HORSE 

shows speed. And when they are longer 
from the coupling to the hock, it also 
shows speed. 

Recipe for Wire Cut on a Horse. — Verdi- 
gris, mix with lard to make a paste. Put 
on the cut twice a day. 

How to Breed. — Some breeders advocate 
breeding in and in, while others argue 
cross breeding. This can be decided only 
after careful study and governed largely 
by the object in view. In and in breeding 
is breeding members of the same family, 
and certainly requires a gifted mind to 
make it successful, because the success de- 
pends on the careful selection of the parents. 

Some persons think that in-breeding is 
brother and sister but it is not. It is breed- 
ing in the same family but from different 
dams. For instance, the Hambletonian 
and Wilkes are the same family but 
different dams. 

For a young or inexperienced breeder 
the in and in breeding is dangerous ex- 
periment. It should never be undertaken 
unless backed by thorough study and 



HORSE 171 

years of practical experience. While cross- 
breeding demands good judgment in the 
mating, vet it is safer for the average 
breeder than the in and in breeding. 

Selection of Breeding Animals.— In mak- 
ing selection of sire or dam it is well to 
take into careful consideration vigor, intel- 
ligence, muscular power, and above all, 
perfect soundness in limbs, body and inter- 
nal organs. These matters must not be 
overlooked if you desire good foal. You 
cannot be as successful in the breeding of 
horses unless you have an intelligent con- 
ception of the subject in all its details and 
requirements. For farm work or heavy 
draft horses the gait to be most desired is 
a fast walk. Owners of farm or draft 
horses would save themselves thousands of 
dollars annually if they would carefully 
cultivate the fast walk. It would be more 
valuable to the world in general than hun- 
dreds of two minute trotters. 

How to Tell When a Mare is With Foal — 
Take a rope or strap and measure around 
the girth where the ; harness goes on the 



172 HORSE 

back and the belly-band buckles on them. 
Measure just in front of the hind legs 
around the body. If larger than that of 
the first measure you may be sure she is 
with foal. 

Care of Mares With Foal and Care of 
Colts. — A mare in foal not intended to be 
kept at work should not be turned into too 
rich pasture, as it disagrees with her stom- 
ach and makes her too fat. Be careful of 
this or she may have a miscarriage. Then 
again if the pasture be too poor the mare 
will get too thin and will starve her foal in 
its growth. If she has been highly fed she 
should have a feed or two of oats dailv. 
After she is six months gone hay and oats 
should be led. After the colt is born the 
mare should have a bran mash. 

How to Make a Mare Own Her Colt. — 
To make a mare own her colt, take some 
milk from the mare and rub it on the colt's 
nose, then let the mare smell it and she will 
own the colt at once. It will work like a 
charm. 

Feed the colt plenty of bran and oats. 
It will make good bone. 



HORSE 173 

Liniment for Thoroughpin or Bog Spavin,— 

Alcohol, 4 oz. 
Camphor, i oz. 
Hartshorn, i oz. 
Spts. turpentine, i oz. 
Arnica, i oz. 
Oil of spike, i oz. 
Oil of cedar, i oz. 

Recipe for Colic or Cramps. — 

Whiskey, \ gal. 

Soda, \ lb. 

Turpentine, \ pt. 

Aloes, 2 oz. 

Gum camphor, 2 oz. 

Salamoniac, 2 oz. 

Take one half of the above recipe, put 
in a jug and shake. Give two or three 
ounces in warm water. 

Black Liniment for Distemper, — 

Alcohol, 4 oz. 

Spts. camphor, 4 oz. 

Aqua ammonia, 2 oz. 

Oil spike, 2 oz. 

Spts. turpentine, 4 oz. 

Rub on throat for distemper. 



174 HORSE 

Spavin Cure. — 

Powd. cantharides, 2 oz. 

Gum euphorbium, \ oz. 

Corrosive sublimate, \ oz. 

White vitriol, \ oz. 

Spts. turpentine, 1 oz. 

Spts. ammonia, \ oz. 

Tr. iodine, 1 oz. 

Nitric acid, 1 oz. 

Lard, 1 lb. 

Use one-half of the recipe. Cut the 
hair as short as you can. Rub with hand 
till it gets warm; grease around with lard; 
put the liniment on three times twelve 
hours apart; wash with castile soap and 
grease with lard. If not cured, repeat in 
six days. 

For Lung Fever. — Take bran and soak in 
water; let the horse drink the water; give 
plenty of salt to keep down inflammation 
and to keep the lungs open; take a piece of 
carpet 3 or 4 double and pour on hot water. 
For pleurisy or lung fever, shave hair off 
short and apply a mustard plaster made 
very strong. 

Give five 3-gr. capsules quinine in the 



HORSE 175 

morning, 20 drops aconite in the evening 
in one gallon of water. If the horse will 
not drink it, drench with it. 

What a Grade Horse Is— He is a full- 
blooded horse, but they are picked over. 
Say there are ten fullblood horses of any 
breed. One man will pick out what are 
shown as the breeding points and the show 
points. Another man will come along 
and pick two the same way. Another 
man will pick one or two horses. The 
balance are grades— are picked over yet 
they are fullblood, and can be pedigreed. 
Take one of these grades and they will 
breed different colors and different shapes. 
A man can buy one of these horses and go 
back where people think a horse with a 
pedigree is the correct animal and if bred 
to a mare will show a fair colt. Any 
animal that is picked over is a grade. 

Horse ought to have about a thimble 
full of salt in his feed twice a day. 

Cattle want to be salted same way to 
make good butter. Salt is a purifier. 



176 HORSES 

Horses will breed back ten generations. 
That is where the grades show up the best. 

Cattle will breed back eight generations. 

Hogs will breed back six generations. 

Sheep will breed back four generations. 

Chickens will breed back four genera- 
tions. 

Sheep and chickens can be breed up so 
they will show good breeding in four gen- 
erations. 

In castrating any kind of stock use hot 
salt water in case they swell and after- 
wards some dry salt. 

This book is condensed, and will prove 
handy and easy to understand to anyone. 



INDEX 

Page 
THE HORSE . ... 3 

Coach . . . • . . 3 

Silvertail Morgan . . . . . 3 

Percheron 

Shire ...... 5 

Cleveland Bay . . ... . 6 

Black Hawk Morgan 6 

Kambletonian ..... • ? 

Clydesdale . *■ ■ 8 

Norman ...... • ■ 

Running - • 

Saddle .10 

Shetland Poney . . .... 11 

Shetland Brood Mare . . . . . 12 

Points to look for in buying a horse . .12 
Mooneyed or Weak eyed . . . .16 

Pollevil or Fistula . .... 16 

Thick Wind 17 

High Bred Trotting 17 

Eligible to register . . ... 18 

Draft Brood Mare 18 

Draft Stallion 19 

How to tell age . .... 20 

Points for good wind on track horse . . 21 

Bad Wind 21 

Gravel or Irritation of Bladder . . . 21 
To Remove Warts . . . - . .22 

Thrush . . 22 

Fevered Leg . ... .22 



Big Head . . ... 


. 23 


Proud Flesh , 


. 23 


To find if Horse is Lame in Foot 


24 


To make Horse look Sleek . 


24 


To grow Hair on an old Sore 


. 24 


Chills 


24 


To grow Hair on Mane or Tail 


. 24 


Poison . . ... 


24 


Corns . . . . . 


. 25 


Side Bone . . 


. 25 


Ring Bone 


, 25 


Scratches and Grease Heel 


25 


For Pinkeye and Distemper 


26 


Shock for Horse or Cattle . . . . 


26 


Rheumatism .... 


27 


Mexican Mustang Liniment 


27 


Stringhalt Remedy ^ 


27 


For Wire Cut or Kick . . . 


27 


Ointment . . . . . . . , 


28 


To Stop Wound Bleeding . . 


. 28 


Heaves .... 


28 


Sweeney . . . ~. . . 


28 


Thoroughpin . . . - , 


29 


Valuable Recipes . . . .29 


to 37 



Ropes and Bridles for Control of a Horse— 
For Kicking, Leading Rearing, Jump- 
ing and Running away . . 37 to 59 



CATTLE 

Jersey 

Holstein 

Roan Durham 

Poll Durham 

Roan Durham Male 



63 
63 
64 
6> 
65 
66 



SHEEP 
Merino 



Scab 



ihl 

67 
68 
69 
69 
70 



Hereford . 

Durham Male . 

Aberdeen Angus . 

Jersey Male . 

Picking Beef Cattle 

How to tell High Bred Cattle ■ 

How to tell a Good Milk Cow . ' ' 9 

Points on a Good Milk Cow . . "3? 

Raising Calves . ' 

Age for Breeding ; • ' ' it 

Disease of Cattle . • • ■■_* • - * 

Garget . • Jl 

Milk Fever . . - • • ' ^ 

Tr°e C atSt of Cow before and aft^r C.lving 80 

To tell age of Cattle . - ■• ^ 

Points for a Good Milk Cow . - • ftj 



b9 
90 



Southdown . • " " 91 

CotSWjld • * * ' * Q9 

Shropshire and Cotswold crossed 

The Young Lamb 

Weaning Lambs , 

Tagging and Docking "™ 



i'4 

98 
100 



102 



£ r * ft * ' - ' . . 102 

Gmbs * i * . " ' ... 105 

To break a dog from Killing Sheep . . 10 > 

HOGS « -iaq 

Male Hog - • - * \\X 

Poland China . • \V\ 

Daroc and O. I. C. . - • ■ \\^ 

Chester White and Berkshire . . * \\t 

Essex and .VcGee . • ■ * L * 



Cholera 



115 



To prevent Hog Catching Chickens . .' 116 
Crossing Hogs .... 122 

Physic Hogs . . . . 122 

Lice . . . . . . 123 

Feeding Pigs . . . .123 

Care of the Brood Sow . . . .124 

Preachy Hog 129 

Thumps 130 

POULTRY 135 

Barred P. R. . . . . . r 

White R 

Brahmas . . 

Buff Cochin .... 

Langshang ... . . . 

Partridge Cochin . . . 

Brown Leghorn . . . . . 1- 

Rhode Island Red . . . . 14^. 

Buff Orpington . . . . .143 

Black Minorca . . . . 14^ 

Buff Rock . . . . 141 

White Wyandotte 146 

Bronze Turkey . . . . .147 

White Turkey . . . . . 148 

Breeding, etc . . . . .149 

Hens for Laying . ; * 152 

Feeding Chicks . . ... 152 

Scurvy Legs . . . . .154 

Cholera . ..... 155 

Lice . . . . . 160 

JACK . . . . .163 

Sure J ark. Breeding Jennies . 164-165 

Hackney Horse ... . 166 

Points for Sure Stallion . . 166 

To Measure a Horse . . . 168-169 

How to Breed Horses . . . 170-171 

How to Tell When Mare Is in Foal . 171 

Care of Mares in Foal and Care of Colts 172 

Recipes wi ! . - r *K . 173-174 

What a Grade Horse Is . . 175 

Breeding Back . ... 176 



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